What are the pros and cons of the two? Right now I have rubber and they are squeaking like crazy. I think my problem stems from pounding them in instead of pressing them in. So I'm going to replace them here soon, just not sure whether I should go with rubber or poly.

If you have stock UCAs, get offset bushings for more caster.

To answer your question - the recommended recipe down here - rubber upper and lower control arm bushes (offset moog type preferred for extra caster)- urethane strut rod and stabilizer bar bushes - poligraphite is better

Reasons - the urethane is to not flexible enough and this flexing due to normal suspension travel is transfered to the mounting brackets on the frame rails - which tend to crack after a while -

On the lowers I am not as clear why But from the mechanicals of the LCA - it is a very thin shell rubber bushing -relative to upper CA - anchored to the K frame int the front and the Torsion bar in the back - the urethane strut rod will limit deflection so no need for urethane in this application - very little deflection

Urethane on the strut rods - and stabilizer bar - it deflect less under braking and cornering - removes the slop

When you speak to the Australian guys who has raced A-body valiants extensively on twisty tracks this is what they recommend

Out back it varies - from solid spring eye bush to rubber - and the shackles open for discussion.

Hope this helps a bit

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Regards,
Fanie Gerber
It's never junk, it's just a part you're not currently using

http://www.valiant50.co.za
Just say I own a few Mopars

Thanks guys, good info. Anyone have a part # for the offset bushings? I'm looking at Napa online and they are showing two different types, one is normal and the other says it provides additional positive camber adjustments. But you guys are talking caster so I'm not sure if it's the same part or not.

It's the ones with camber adjustment that you want.

You actually want a little negative camber and positive caster, but by switching the offset of ONE of the bushings (the ones they say for pos camber), you can get more negative camber.

I also have rubber UCA and LCA bushings in all my cars except the '64 Dart, which I just changed to rod ends on the UCAs.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Is there any way to change the upper control arm bushings without taking the ball joints apart and messing them up?

Yes!

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Joshua

You can remove and install the upper control arm bushings on the car with a special tool. The tool can be purchased. I bought this one for about $30.

See instructions here to make your own version of the tool.

Ending up making a tool similar to that. Used a big socket to go over the bushing, a long bolt, two washers and a nut. They pressed in and out like butter.

Found the problem with the squeaking. Forgot to put the big outer washers back on. Found the front two sitting on the frame and the other two must have slid down the frame and out at some point. Either way got two more and now the squeak is gone and the new bushings pressed in for good measure.

my daughters scamp was suffering from way to much negative camber. ( time for new tires) i finally had a chance to check it out today and i just adjusted the upper control arms all the way positive and then set the toe with a tape measure. it drives much better and the bump steer is gone. i do plan on rebuilding the front end when i have some extra doe. i do have the height adjusters down now sothat it sits a bit lower in the front for now. wheels are reading just at 90 deg. with them straight ahead now. my question is .. are the offset bushing needed for a stock spec. alignment? being i just set it with a deg. finder and tape measure.
thanks
jd [/b][/u]

For those that need the part number for upper control arm offset bushings they are:

Moog # K7103