Hello fellow Slant Six fans, back in February I purchased a 1972 Plymouth Duster with less 33,000 original miles on it "leaning tower of power." The car is essentially a bare-bones model with the only options being a 225 Slant Six, power steering, AM radio and an automatic transmission. Since I bought the car I have racked up nearly 1200 miles until I had to rebuild the carburetor which is a Holley 1920 1-barrel. The problem that I am still have after rebuilding it for the second time and soaking it to clean the debris for nearly 3 days is, the engine starts right up, but after a few minutes the engine stalls out as if there is a fuel delay. Apparently, when I put the car into gear it will also stall out. In addition to having a brand new Carter fuel pump, full tune-up, fresh coolant as well as hoses, we just cannot get the car to run right long enough to pull it out of the driveway. I would greatly appreciate any advice or suggestions so I can get my Duster on the road again.

You can also e-mail me at: MoparJoe383@aol.com

Welcome on the board. Will it restart once it's stalled? If so, how quickly and easily? Carburetor operation and repair manuals (and some training movies) are posted here for free download. You may also wish to do the Fuel line mod.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I could hardly get my car up the block a few months ago so I have some understanding of what you are going through.

As Dan mentioned, the fuel line mod should be on your to do list.

Perhaps check into the choke adjustment threads on this forum.

I would also recommend that you search for the HEI thread. I just recently put in the recommended NGK plugs, BlueStreak cap, MO3000 rotor, semi-custom 8mm Magnecor wires, new dizzy from Old Car Parts Northwest @ 7 degrees initial timing, Blaster 3 coil and LX301 HEI module and now the car is tunable. I chased my tail for some time trying to rebuild and tune my new to me slant Holley 1920 before the ignition upgrade and now looking back on it I would have done the ignition mods first.

If you get the spark end of the equation buttoned up, then perhaps you could move onto setting the valves hot and checking and correcting vacuum leaks.

Keep at it and do some searching on the forum. SlantSixDan and others have documented all this stuff in the past.

Welcome to the forum!

I just had the same problem on my D-100. To give the short version, and eliminating failed ideas, after checking everything else the deciding factors were...if I held the choke almost closed by hand the engine would run normally, and if while doing this I sprayed starter fluid at the base of the throttle shaft it changed the running of the engine, and if I waited for the engine to start sputtering and sprayed starter fluid at the throttle shaft it would continue running, based on this I assumed that the throttle shaft was sucking air and bought a carburetor which solved the problem.

Sounds like a vacuum leak. Choke kicks off and it goes lean.

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick