I know you guys mostly like to turn wrenchs like me, but I am needing some advice on painting my car. I have purchased a "cheap " line of paint from paintforcars.com due to a small budget. I am stripping the car down to bare metal and plan on applying acid etching primer, block sanding, and then a single stage acrylic enamel metalic red paint. I was wondering if anyone has some tips on painting with acrylic enamel and if some one has ever heard of a final mist coat and how to apply it. Any wisdow would be appreciated.

Thanks Joe

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1964 barracuda 198 slant

I painted my '73 D100 with acrylic enamel and it came out just like the original factory finish...runs...orange peel...thin spots...but I prefer the look over modern 2-part finishes.

This is probably more than you want to know, but here goes...

Get the directions for the paint you are using. Most companies don’t put it on the can anymore but it might be there. I’ve never seen any mention of a mist coat from the manufacture.

Some say the first coat should be mist coated and some say the final coat but neither really makes any sense. The idea is to get smooth even coats from start to finish. Small imperfections get larger with each coat so you don’t want a lumpy, dry-sprayed mess on the bottom. Dry-spray doesn’t stick to your sand scratches either. A good dry spraying on the final coat may be for dispersing the metallic but I don’t see how that’s better than a dull hazy paint job. Some things may work once but they don’t work consistently.

Most acrylic enamel instructions say to spray 2-3 coats with a dry time in between of 20-30 minutes. This is where almost EVERYONE screws up their paint. Too much paint (too many coats or coats that are too thick) can’t dry properly. It’s the same with re-coating before the last coat is dry to the touch. When there is still solvent in the bottom coat and the top coat skims over, the solvent has to get out somehow. It’s not going through the metal, so it makes bubbles or haze in the top coat as it escapes. That happens later though. While you are spraying it is keeping all of your coats wet and ready to run. Each coat wets the last coat. The more coats you add, the more careful you have to be about drying time. Some of these problems don’t show, and acrylic enamel isn’t completely dry for a month; even more if it’s too thick and wet.

You can even give it an extra 30 minutes and sometimes carefully wet sand boulders or small runs out between coats. Sometimes you can just push them down with the flat side of a fingernail or cut them level with a razor blade. If it’s not dry to the touch after about 30 minutes - you are spraying it too thick or the temperature is too cold.

You don’t want it to go on smooth. It looks kinda awful and lumpy when it first goes on, then smoothes out in the next few minutes. If it doesn’t smooth out the temperature is too high or it’s not thick enough. Remember, paint is manufactured to match a factory finish. That is the best you can get out of the gun without runs. If you want something else, it has to be done with a buffer, and probably clear coat.

Metallic in a single stage color can be challenging for a first paint job. While getting smooth even coats without runs, sags or dust, you have to make sure the metallic is dispersed evenly. It usually does it by itself so you don’t have to worry about it too much. If it doesn’t, it’s most likely in the sprayer adjustment or you’re spraying too thick. It can also be rotten paint - some of them mottle no-matter what you do. Runs and sags show up more in metallic colors because the metal flake piles up there. Then, large runs, goobers, boogers or gobs are impossible to sand out of the final coat without making a disagreeable mess in the metal flake. You can sand a run completely smooth and buff it away but you can still see it in the metal flake.

You get three coats - I look at it as three chances to get it right. Try to get rid of imperfections on your way to the last coat and make sure each coat is dry before applying the next. Then wait at least a month to sand any anything out or buff it. If you do it sooner it will haze over, sink into sand scratches that you didn’t know you had, and you’ll have to do it all again when it’s finished curing.

And it’s never too late to stop. If something bad enough happens, you’ll be surprised how easy it is to wash the car down with enamel reducer and start over. You can also let it dry, sand it down and start over but it’s really best to wait at least a month to re-paint it. You might get away with a couple of weeks if it’s not too thick - sand thick places, like runs/sags, down and then let it dry.

Danny

Thanks for the great information just what I was looking for real word experience. I wanted to go with a solid color but my wife has her heart set on metalic red so I hope it works. little nervous about it though. I have painted a white panel truck once but was not concerned about pretty like I am now. so I hope I can pull it off and not mess the whole thing up. good to know about the orange peel going away after it sits for a minute I did not know that and would have put it on to wet most likely.

thanks Joe

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1964 barracuda 198 slant

Good info, 65Dodge100, thanks for taking the time to write all that down.

Probably on of the most famous internet threads of all time



http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/sho ... art=1&vc=1

http://rollyourcar.com/method.aspx


Same method as in the thread. I have custom mixed Rustoleum White, with black and blue (color still looks white) and done my engine compartment and it looks factory.


After I get the front end put back together and engine dropped in I'm tackling the exterior.

Ok, I'm not big on this rustolium idea. Sounds good but I think the lack of a hardner would cause some trouble later with gas and brake fluid. I've painted a few tractors with rustolium and it never really hardens much and fades pretty fast in the sun. Besided I just spent 350.00 buck on paintand primer and don't want to think about only spending $50.

Thanks joe

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1964 barracuda 198 slant

Well, I can tell you that my engine compartment paint is hard as a rock. (harder to scratch than any new paint job, I've experimented).

As for the fading comment, any paint without clearcoat will fade without being waxed. Keep this stuff waxed like we used to before 2 stage paints (clearcoat) and it'll be fine.

But as you say you've already bought the supplies so Here's to a great paint job Joe {lifts glass}

To keep the metallic evenly dispersed in the paint I add 2 or 3 glass marbles to the paint when I put it in the gun. Just shake a bit now and then as you spray will keep it mixed up.

thanks for the tip I will do that.

Joe

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1964 barracuda 198 slant

Don’t try it if you have a gravity feed gun.

Danny

I have a gravity feed gun? why not does it stop the flow or something?

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1964 barracuda 198 slant

Just in case there is a mix-up, this is a gravity feed gun. A marble would go right to the center/bottom and block the hole or fall into it depending on the size of everything involved.

I’ve never found marbles in the paint cup to be helpful really. It's more safe to take the lid off and stir it if I think I've let it sit around too long. The paint is only in the gun about 5 minutes when spraying an entire car. Assuming you stir it before you pour it in, you should be in good shape.

Danny