I have Plymouth Satellite station wagon ' 72. Oil in system 20w-50 as in the instruction. After start pressure in norm. As the engine will get warm - in norm. After a while on a brake and drive it low. I think, that oil too heats up. Has probably put in RPM on drive and on a brake - 600 RPM. It is a lot of? On a neutral idling - 800 RPM. I wish to establish an oil radiator. Prompt from where to take a fence and return of oil.

hi, are you looking for a oil cooler to lower the oil temp? or where your oil pressure guage operates vs engine temp? ronnie

Engine oil is supposed to heat up. What makes you suspect that it needs to be cooled? Have you measured how hot it's getting when it reaches operating temperature?

Unless your bearings are really worn, I would say that 20W-50 is too thick for a slant six, even in Furnace Creek, CA in July.

Chrysler Oil Recommendations

Здравствуйте.

Ваш нефть слишком толстая. Используйте вместо 10w30. Чтобы установить масло-охладитель, Вам понадобится адаптер между насосом и фильтром. Вот один пример. Вы не должны нефти-охладитель. Если двигатель слишком жарко, то-то нуждается в ремонте.

(Everyone else: No, I don't speak Russian. I used http://translate.google.com )

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Tod,

Welcome to this site. I think you might be saying that your oil light is coming on at low idle? This could be worn engine bearings or a weak oil pump. 600 RPM is not too low for idle speed.

I hope we can help you.

Best wishes,

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

SlantSixDan, I use the same translator)
The instruction says to use oil 20w-50 if the temperature is above 32F. We are 77-86F. The engine warms not, do not even warming up to the middle. I think the case of a thermostat.
Dart270, native pressure sensor I have is defective. Using a mechanical pressure gauge. On a cold pressure - 43psi. On hot to neutral - 28. At the transmission and brakes on warmed up - 14.

Tod,

Your oil pressure numbers are a little low, but still safe. This is typical for an older engine that has not been rebuilt. For normal driving (not racing), this should be totally fine.

20W50 is thicker than it needs to be, but it should not hurt anything either. I would run 10W40.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

http://www.acccc.net/index.php?option=c ... mitstart=2

If temperatures are consistently above 32 ° F - use SAE 20W-40. I view 20-50 because it is a little thicker. Just for the old engine. A terrible dream, that at a pressure of 14 engine is the third in chips. Say it is not so.
In Russia, all 3 SL6 and only one satellite car - mine.
I think about synthetic oil. Let's say 10w-50 will have the same strength? I want to say that in the summer is important, second digit. Synthetics are also better their quality, but do not want to lose pressure.

Tod
I use synthetics on all of my engines. I would use 10W-30 for my older engine. A note of caution. Synthetic oil can leak in older engines, it will test the main seals and oil pans seal.
It gets to 110 degrees F here and no need for thicker oil.
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

The instruction also says 10w-30 above 32°F. The only reason to use 20w-50 (or 20w-40) is if the engine is in bad condition. 10w-40 is always a bad choice.
Yes. Replace the thermostat with a new one of the correct 180°F (82°C) temperature rating.
That is fine. Service the oil pressure relief valve to make sure it's doing its job, as described in these two threads: thread 1, thread 2.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

The viscosity of a 50-weight oil (20W-50, 10W-50, 5W-50) should be in the range of 16.3 - 21.9 cSt @ 100°C. Your engine oil should be around 100°C when it is fully warm so your oil pressure with any 50-weight oil should be about the same. A lower W-grade (5W versus 20W) means that the oil is thinner when the engine is cold. Synthetic oils typically are naturally thinner at cold temperatures than conventional oils so 5W-50 synthetics are readily available.

As for leaks, I thought these were more of a problem with the early Group IV oils (PAO oils) than the Group III synthetic oils that are more common.

You mentioned that your engine does not warm up properly. If you need help finding a thermostat, let us know.

I am surprised to see that there are even 4 Chrysler vehicles in Russia. I saw a old Charger in Hungary once and I would not have expected these types of cars to have made their way even farther east. Could you post some photos of them and your story in the Slixer's Gallery?

http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11468
did not understand what to do with this and how it will help pressures

need to disassemble the engine or the mystical relief valve is accessible from under the hood?

http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... 590#244590 - my car

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Satellite Wagon'72

The oil pressure relief valve prevents the oil pump from making excessive pressure. If it is dirty it can work too well and cause the oil pump to make less pressure than it should.
The thread shows photos of the oil pump. The green arrows point to the oil pressure relief valve. It is accessible from under the car. The oil pump is mounted on the spark plug side of the engine toward the bottom of the engine block.

Danny

Great that the oil pump from the outside, not inside!
This evening, do it!
Need your help with hermostat. Please show it photo. What is it diameter?

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Satellite Wagon'72

The thermostat is at the engine end of the top radiator hose. There is a small housing fastened to the engine with two screws - the thermostat is inside. The thermostat diameter is 2.125 inch.

If you can navigate an English website, you can find pictures, measurements and part numbers at http://www.rockauto.com (and buy parts also.)

Danny