ok, so i tackled this project today only to sweat to death and loose a fingernail. what is the best way to get the front spring hangers on/off of my 70 valiant? i have the passenger side off and the driver side is just sitting there because i lost a fingernail when my wrench slipped. the way i did it was jacked up the rear and put stands under the subframe and unbolted the leaf spring from the front hanger and then the front hanger. is that the way it should be done? it just seemed like there would be an easier way. any tips?

green1970:
While warring gloves:

1. Raise vehicle, support with jack stands at frame.

2. Using floor stands under axel assembly, raise axle to remove weight on rear spring.

3. Disconnect rear shock at lower mounting stud.

4.Loosen and remove "U" bolts nuts, and remove Spring plate.

5. Loosen and remove the nuts holding front spring hanger to body mounting bracket.

6. Loosen and remove rear spring hanger bolts and let spring drop far enough to pull front spring hanger bolts out of body mounting bracket holes.

7. Once spring is out, remove front pivot bolt from front spring hanger.

8. Remove shackle nuts and remove shackle from rear spring.

Install:

Rear spring hanger bolt 30 ft. lb.
Front hanger to body nuts 30 ft. lb.
7 1/4 axel "U" bolts & nuts 40 lb. ft.... 45 ft. lb. for other models I would install new grade 8 washers under "U" bolt nuts.
Shock stud nut 50 ft. lb.

Lower vehicle to floor and with full weight on wheels tighten pivot bolt at front eye to 60 ft. lb. for 170 ci., and 125 ft. lb. for 125 ci.

Tighten shackle nuts to 30 ft. lb.

You may need to adjust front ride height, and alignment.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

I just took out the bolt that holds the leaf to the hanger....removed the bolts that fasten the hanger to the body. Pried the spring out of the way....and using a prybar removed the nager from the body.

If you are reversing them and swapping side for side be aware you will have to drill a couple of holes.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

thanks for the info. i did it the way sandy said. i thought that would be the easiest way. i am gonna flip them to lower the car but what is the deal with swapping them from one side to another? what does that benefit? i have already dropped the front earlier this week and have yet to get an alignment. thanks for the replies.

I have no idea why people bring up swapping the hangers side-to-side. Because the bolts at the top of the hanger are closer together than the bottom ones you have to oval the holes in the chassis, but it isn't very hard to do.

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Joshua

yeah i figured that i would have to do that but i have heard so many people talking about swapping sides that i thought that it was something that may need to be done. anyway, thanks for the info and i will post results on here soon.

Instead of flipping the hangers and ovaling the holes in the frame you can buy new hangers that will lower the car. Firm Feel has the hangers or you can get them from Mancini Racing

Those hangers from MANCINI and FIRM FEEL have the advantage of having two positions - one stock, one lowered.

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

Is the lowered hole in the 2 hole lowering hanger as low as a flipped stock hanger?

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Grandpa's 1974 Dart Custom 4 door 225 auto, Aluminum Radiator, 1920 Holley.

Swapping side for side is easily figured out when you get there....There is a left and right hanger. The bolt pattern makes you swap.

A lot less material needs to be removed by swapping side to side.....

click to view full-version

Realistically by the time you remove the old hanger you save little by installing an aftermarket one....other than making your wallet lighter.

Watch your driveshaft angle after doing this though......

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Sandy,

What's different between the left and right hangers? I can't tell a difference.

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Joshua

There are 4 studs in an offset pattern x2

x x and x x


x x x x

swapping side for side makes more holes(3) correct You still need to drill one hole per side.

Forgive me if Im inaccurate.....I did this in 1999 or so.....and I still think I remember things.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

There isn't any difference between right and left hangers. Swapping from side to side is pointless because the hangers are identical on each side. Flipping them over requires that all four holes in the frame be butchered up. I don't see the point unless a person wants to stay with the small eyebolts. The aftermarket hangers use the larger 5/8 eyebolt while some A body cars came with the dinky eyebolts.

The hangers have different bolt patterns side for side. The studs are staked into the hanger and not removable without destruction. This makes swapping side for side the easy alternative.

I drilled mine for the larger eyebolt.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

I remember it the way Andy does. The top studs and holes are simply closer together than the bottom ones. Since Andy manufactures spring hangers for A bodies I have to take him at his word.

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Joshua