I guess I'm at a crossroads with my slant Valiant on where to go with the build. to those who actually auto cross their A bodies, in you opinion is this car worth investing in the sport? The advantages of a light weight slant A body could shine on the track but would it be worth it is my concern. The frusterating thing is, Just Suspension has upgrade components but the cost of making a vintage car handle like a modern RWD seems to be an daunting task. $4K on a tubular frot end conversion seems rediculous. I may fear it may be unsatisfactory. If thats the case, I'd rather drag race build my 66 Valiant up followiing the path of TurboValiant66. Love the car, but afraid falling out of love with it by going the wrong direction if you catch my drift. Suggestions? Thanks guys.

Nick

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1973 Plymouth Valiant
1953 Dodge Panel

You don't need tubular anything.

Have you ever ridden in an A-body with wheel/tire, torsion bar, shock and sway bar upgrades? You can make very large increases in handling and grip without buying anything else.

You really should decide where you want to race the car and in what class before spending a dime on parts.

Personally I like a car I can drive around casually that still handles very well. A lot of drag cars are compromised to the point that they are less fun to drive on the street than stock.

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Joshua

I'm afraid my experience with suspension upgraded A bodies are limited. I think the key thing I'm looking for is overall safety when it comes to handling. By no means am I expecting this car to out handle my old Evo, but when it comes to what you're describing about a car that handles well and can drive around easily is what I'm looking for. A dedicated Drag car is fun, but I agree with you on its limitability on the street can take some sparkle out of it for me.

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1973 Plymouth Valiant
1953 Dodge Panel

Well, you need to set a goal. Whether that goal is a particular race class or a dollar amount you still need a goal.

My '67 Valiant has 1.04" Mopar Performance torsion bars, QA1 stocker star shocks, 11.75" disc brakes, 17x8" +30mm offset front wheels and 235/45R17 tires. The car handles very well and still rides pretty nicely. I don't even have a sway bar on the car, but it's still light years ahead of stock.

Have you upgraded to big bolt pattern disc brakes and rear axle? Do you have the money to buy big aluminum wheels and matching tires? 15x7" wheels are pretty much the minimum to have a lot of grip. The early Valiants like yours look pretty good lowered on 15x7" wheels with 225/50R15 tires. If you want wider tires you pretty much have to go to 17" wheels. Yes, there are wider 15" tires, but they are not available in high performance compounds. TA radials and Dunlop Qualifiers are not high performance tires and have not been for years. You cannot skimp on the wheel and tire package, especially on the tires.

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Joshua

These cars can handle very well for not a lot of effort, as Josh says. Wheels and tires are probably the biggest improvement, followed by shocks and sway bars. I have 3 A bodies that all handle and stop well.

Here are some pics of my cars:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/16910097@N06/

All of the track events I've been to with my '64 Dart were with STOCK suspension parts except for addition of a 1.125" Addco sway bar, nicer shocks (KYBs, then Edelbrocks), and 0.920" torsion bars. I just recently went to tubular front susp parts, and I am not sure it was worth it. Have had 16X8 rims with 245/45-17 tires for the last 7 yrs.

My '68 Dart driver handles very well with similar upgrades and 15X8 wheels with 22/50-15 tires.

Best of luck with your projects,

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Right now I'm sitting on a rebuilt Ford 9" with I believe the current gear ratio is 3.75" I also have a Tremec 5 Speed thats in the works of being rebuilt. 17's I have which are similar to what you have on your car and tires are Kumhos which will be swapped for Falken Azenis RT 615's with 235/50?/R17. Everything I have started to be set up for in the handling Dept. but before I go further, I just wanted to get some experienced input from those who have/had invested time. Probably a bit late to ask since I have gone this far, but there is a reason for it. Going cruising at a local undisclosed area with a buddy's car, his set up was safe and ideal to how I'd like this car to maneuver when pushed. I'm all for safety,usefulness and selecting the right parts is key for maximum return in investment. I appreciate the feedback you're giving me.

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1973 Plymouth Valiant
1953 Dodge Panel

OK, you're already on your way. The Azenis RT 615 is a good tire for autocross, but you may want something a little longer lived and heat tolerant if you decide to do open track events.

If you can afford the roughly $150 a corner price of the QA1 shocks you can use 1.04" or slightly larger torsion bars with no problem. With a good sway bar, I mention good because the Addco hardware for early A-bodies stinks, and decent alignment you'll be able to get a lot of grip. Chances are with these modifications the car will understeer a bit. Stiffer rear springs will help balance the handling.

Once you've gone this far it's worthwhile to tie the front and rear subframes together. You can also tie the rear spring hanger area to the rocker boxes with the parts from Auto Rust Technicians. Stiffening more means working in front of the firewall. Oh, almost forgot gusseting the K-member so you don't tear out the lower control arm pivots.

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Joshua

Christ, the set ups on your cars is insane! I don't think I'd want to venture into the territory of tubular goodness like you sir, I applaud your handy work!

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1973 Plymouth Valiant
1953 Dodge Panel

I've thought about stiffening up the frame a bit, weld stitching and bracing I wouldn't mind seeing. Never thought about focusing in the areas you mentioned. Auto Rust technicians? interesting. Addco swaybars is the only sway bar I saw available aside from the one Just suspenion offered. Tirewise on track days I was thinkng of nice meats such as Bridgestone RE01's.

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1973 Plymouth Valiant
1953 Dodge Panel

Yes, I forgot to mention that you have to gusset or rework the Addco mounts.

I do not have subframe connectors in my '64 Dart, which is quite a stiff chassis. If yours is a post car, then it will be similar. I have lightened it quite a bit ('glass hood, less interior, no front bumper...). I just put connectors in my '68 Dart and noticed a difference, but not huge.

The Azenis actually wear quite well. I have 3-5 track weekends on a set and they are maybe half gone. I've run them in the rain too and they work great. I think mine are the older 215 generation.

Where are you located?

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I'm here in the Riverside Area of California, and yes my car is a post car so it looks like alot of work is ahead to get her from being a sloppy steerer. Thank you for the info.

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1973 Plymouth Valiant
1953 Dodge Panel

A Valiant post car is the best platform for rigidity, IMHO. A rebuilt stock suspension and steering box are worlds better than old worn parts...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I was considering to buy the Mopar Performance manual gear box, and absolutely is it going to need to have the front end worked on. When I got the car, its suspension is so bad worn wise its not even remotely safe to use. Thanks again for the input guys.

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1973 Plymouth Valiant
1953 Dodge Panel

I highly recommend the 20:1 worm and ballnut if you can find one. This is a great street/track setup.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Is this something that can be acessible and ordered or will it drag me out to the junk yards of Socal?

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1973 Plymouth Valiant
1953 Dodge Panel