Hey all.
I have a slant 6 which is rather hard to start hot.
It's a 73 Valiant.
I have had this problem in the past, and have done several things to try to deal with it.
I've re-routed the fuel line so it isn't over the intake/exhaust or the cylinder head, I have put on a heat shield off an 81 Cordoba under the carb and over the intake manifold, and I have used a thicker than normal carb gasket.

It has the Holley 1920 carb on it. The engine runs and idles fine the majority of the time.

It's only when I shut it off, and then it sits for between 10 and 45 minutes, that it becomes hard to start and begin running. It usually requires holding the gas part way down until it starts, and when it tries to run, it usually stalls unless I give it some gas for 20 or 30 seconds.

Although my efforts so far have helped somewhat, I haven't totally eliminated the problem. I think the carburetor is still getting too hot after I shut it off.

Does anyone else have further ideas or input?
Thanks.

Have you done anything to the carb itself? Checked the float level? Replaced the needle and seat? Replaced the float?

_________________
Joshua

Actually yes, I rebuilt it a while back now.
Thanks.

Actually I am remembering now that when I rebuilt the carb, I bought a float at NAPA, but it was the wrong one. That was the only one they had. I had to put the old one back into the carb because I couldn't get one that had the right shape.

That probably is what the problem is.
Does anyone know where I could get a float?
They're pretty hard to come by.
Thanks.

New float is a good idea. Float is a Walker #100-14. Carburetor operation and repair manuals (and some training movies) are posted here for free download; also see the threads linked off that post regarding 1920 dial-in.

Fuel line reroute is a good start; try the fuel line mod for better insulation of the fuel against engine bay heat. Another thing you may want to do to combat the tendency of hot weather to aggravate conditions like this is to install a vapour-return system. It uses a 3-nipple fuel filter (Wix 33054 or NAPA Gold 3054, Purolator F20030); the 3rd is ¼" and has an 0.060" orifice to prevent bleeding off useful fuel pressure. You run a new vapour hose from that 3rd fitting all the way back to the fuel tank.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks for all of the info, Dan.
I will check out the movies you posted.
Thanks also for the part number.

You also mentioned the 3 port fuel filter.
I had seen those and wondered what the third port was for!
Now I know.
Thanks.

Hey. I just wanted to follow up with this post.
Incredibly, I can't find a float for this carburetor ANYWHERE.
I've checked parts stores, I've checked online, etc.
NO DICE.

At one of the parts stores, they showed photos of all of the floats they could order. The one for the Holley 1920 wasn't even in the book. All of the books say "obsolete".

It's a side hung float- i.e. the metal piece that the float hangs from is hooked into the side of the float itself.

One parts store sent me to a carburetor rebuilder.
The rebullder told me this:
He said, "they only used that carburetor for a few years, so that's why you can't find floats for it".

I told him the problem I was having was that the engine was "loading up" when it is shut off hot, and that it's hard to start.

He said to me "oh, that's an inherent problem with them. You can't fix it. When those cars were new, people were taking them back to the dealer for that kind of problem. The only thing you can do is put a different carburetor on and hope you get a good one. I don't know what they did wrong in 1973-77, but they were all like that, and you can't fix it."

OK, is that TRUE? In my opinion, any problem can be fixed if you try hard enough to fix it.

All he had were old floats that had been used, no new ones.

I'm just wondering if anyone has any leads for new floats. Surely someone out there has replacement ones lying around somewhere. Thanks.

Call up Walker and ask them where you can get the float; I gave you the part number above.
I am quite sure you can get one from www.thecarburetorshop.com , who also make the best, most complete carb rebuild kits available (for when the commonly available kits won't get the job done).
Then he's an ignorant boob making stuff up 'cause he doesn't know what he's talking about. Holley 1920s were used on slant-6s from '62 thru '73. I guess in his dumb little mind, eleven years is only a "few". And the 1920 was used on other makes for longer than that, too, so this guy's full of it.
He says that 'cause he doesn't know how to fix it.
More horsecrap. 1973 was the last year for the 1920 on Slant-6s. 1974 to '77 models used the totally different Holley 1945, except for 2bbl models which used the Carter BBD.

The Holley 1920 can and does eventually effectively wear all the way out (cannot practicably be restored to proper function) once the metering block gets full of corrosion and starts falling apart. And it's certainly possible that you may have better results, faster and with less effort, by swapping on a different/better carb. A "remanufactured" unit from a parts store would be a poor choice; they're junk. I still have a few new and nearly-new ones left on shelf, but they are disappearing fast. You may be interested to review this poster's good experience with Buzzard Carburetors' refurbishment of his '73 1920.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks Dan.
I'll try calling them.
(I had asked for the Walker number that you gave me at the parts stores, but they didn't have it. I hadn't thought of calling them directly.)
Thanks for the link also.

He probably told me all of that b.s. just to get me to buy a carburetor from him- which I didn't do.

But I don't see the sense in replacing something when you can just rebuild it yourself.

Well, again, if yours is a high-miles unit, it may be well beyond practicable repair. But yeah, you should definitely buy a carb from me, not from that stupid other guy.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

newport77,

Sorry your getting jerked around by folks in the stores. What a load of crap!
Floats are not hard to get, Joe's Carb Rebuild shop in Lynnwood, WA (see the Slanted Network index for their address) has them and any other gasket you may want. The 1920 is a great carb, easy to work on and make run well. You can have the shaft rebushed if needed and keep rebuilding for years to come.

What part of the country are you in?

two thumbs up! for Joe's!!!!!!:D

there contact info is: (425) 774-5504
5516 - 186th Pl. SW Lynnwood, WA 98037
http://www.joescarb.com

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

have you checked out the fuel pump.I had a problem years ago shortly after buying my car.it ran fine when it is cold or driving but when you shut it off it was hard to start. becouse the fuel pump was working but not putting out enough fuel.

I'm in NJ, but I can still call the place you suggested in WA.

Thanks for the fuel pump idea, but I replaced it a while back.
It's relatively new.

The car doesn't have high miles actually.
The carb shouldn't be worn out completely, at least not the throttle shaft bushings.

It should be rebuildable.

Thanks.