okay i've read thru almost the entire engine section incl the carb downloads and have somewhat found an answer to my questions so i think i need verification. i recently rewired the car but was having carb issues before and installed rebuilt holley 1945. the car cranks - slowly - and may or may not start. usually may not. its as though its not getting enough spark. i also have the problem with cutoff when accelerating or changing gears. i believe i have a vacuum leak-following some advice i've read thru posts. changed and/or set points condensor(don;t ever buy at autozone) and rotor. when i removed dist cap there was gook so i cleaned with new fiber free towel. the vacuum advance has a lot of gook on it. can i take it off with out removing the distributor and can it contribute to the lack of starting. also i can't seem to locate the pcv valve-looked at manuals and thruout car. and my brake booster is definitely bad. thxz

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fenomenalkatt!!!

'67 Dart "Sandy"
225/904

also did fuel line mod when i replace fuel pump

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fenomenalkatt!!!

'67 Dart "Sandy"
225/904

If your brake booster is bad then plug the line to the manifold and see if it starts better.

Do you have a dwell tachometer? cuz points need to be set just so......

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Was this a "remanufactured" carburetor you bought from a parts store? Those tend to be very problematic.
Slow cranking indicates a problem. Bad starter, bad battery cable(s), dirty connections at the battery, bad battery (dead cell), or grossly over-advanced ignition timing. Remove the coil wire and try cranking again. If the cranking speed is much higher, then you'll need to fix the ignition timing. Otherwise, find and fix the problem in the starting system.

Could be spark- or carburetor-related. Need more info.
What kind of gunk are we talking about, and where? If it's oily or greasy, it probably got on the points, too, causing them to burn. This will cause poor starting and running.
No. And it's durn near impossible to set points correctly without removing the distributor, too.
It's atop the valve cover, at the rear (with a '69 or earlier valve cover) or in the middle ('70-up valve cover), with a 3/8" ID hose going to the carburetor.
That'll cause a huge vacuum leak and resultant poor running.

What model and year is this car, by the way, that it has breaker points (last year 1972) and a Holley 1945 carburetor (first year 1974)? What else is in non-stock condition?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

rebuilt.


new starter battery battery cables, connections. bout to try the coil test and get back 2 u. also new plugs wires, valve job valve and head cover gaskets.
thick oily - the oil wasn't secure throwing oil everywhere. when we started the valve job we began cleaning but the distributor was the last as the car actually ran til the wire issue(elec. nightmare/electric forum/april '09) the starting was an issue before and after.

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fenomenalkatt!!!

'67 Dart "Sandy"
225/904

More detail, please. Where did you get the carburetor?
From where?
Okeh, your points are going to be toast, then, and it sounds like your distributor is worn out and your crankcase ventilation isn't working correctly (oil getting up past distributor shaft and getting flung around inside the distributor)

Still waiting for answers to important questions in my response above.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

oil cap

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fenomenalkatt!!!

'67 Dart "Sandy"
225/904

carb was in the car when i got it 2 years ago the starter from napa auto. i had it rebuilt @ recarbo in pittsburg, ca

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fenomenalkatt!!!

'67 Dart "Sandy"
225/904

"Oil cap"?

Okeh, I tried. *shrug* :shrug: If you're not interested in giving sufficient basic information to those people trying to help you get your problems fixed, then I'm not especially interested in being one of those people.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

the distributor cap is new as well - the old one was definitely worn and carbonized. the points were also badly worn into a new shape and burnt

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fenomenalkatt!!!

'67 Dart "Sandy"
225/904

maybe its the wrong terminology and i apologize because if u recall from the electrical nightmare post i'm usually compulsively detailed. by oil cap i mean the cap ontop the valve cover that one pours the oil in. and i appreciate ALL youur assistance so please don't give up on me yet. i thought i had cap in the text above and that's why i added that bit of text. u r most helpful and i utilized every bit of knowledge shared when i rewired sandy. its soooooooooo different with an older car as in newer ones there is actually an oil cap with no hoses and here there are hoses everywhere so i'm really really trying to be as concise as possible. i'd had the cutting off problem before the wiring issue and had actually taken the carb off a coupla times before finally taking it to be rebuilt. the bowl cover had dropped and bent and i noticed that i had gas leaking around the base of the carb.
the location where u said to check for the pcv valve was also covered with thick oily goo. i cleaned it when i did the valve job and it's still fairly clean. as i said after the rewiring, the car actually worked, more or less but continued the cutting off problem. it did start rather easily tho once i warranty swapped the battery. i thought also ignition timing esp due to the constant cranking just to get started. i did take the starter back to napa and had it tested and the monitor showed it was good. i've checked all bolts and connections on the starter and battery for tightness and all were good. checked the ground connection fr battery and it's tight. walking out now to check the results of the coil test as well as the pcv valve. on one of the occasions the car was actually starting and running, i had an electrician test the system and all checked out good with the exception of needing to replace the posts for the bulkhead disconnect - checking the results and will report back. again i apologize for any confusion or seemingly lack of interest. katt

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fenomenalkatt!!!

'67 Dart "Sandy"
225/904

tried contacting the person who i bought the car from to find out the carb history and it is the carb which was in the car when i got it may, 2006. as he gave me extra stuff when i got the car i'm not sure if one of the ones he gave as extras was on sandy or not. the cranking was definitely higher so the timing is next on the list. also, after reviewing similar post before beginning a new one, i also took the gas cap off and left it off for a while like 3 plus hours. the cranking was much better afterwards and not the slow dragging cranking from before. gonna have someone slightly more experienced adjust the timing. ironically i have about 3 distributors which came with the car and checking to see if they are actually for it thanks again. spark plugs are not wet, another suggestion given to another poster.

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fenomenalkatt!!!

'67 Dart "Sandy"
225/904

Katt
Sounds like your on the right track. Also you may have some vacum leaks. See about getting the timing set right and post back.
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

just a thought... could the rings be affecting the compression given that i did a complete valve job?

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fenomenalkatt!!!

'67 Dart "Sandy"
225/904

I just had to replace the brake booster in my truck the diaphram was leaking through, it had the same sympthoms that you described, I pinned it down by plugging the vacuum at the manifold as someone previously suggested.