getting ready to re-locate the battery on this 83 D-150 to the front corner of the passenger side of the bed. May get a slight improvement in weight distribution, but really want to clean up the engine compartment, and major wiring sections, will be installing an audio amp, so need to run line power to the rear of the cab any way, so, why not.

attachment 0003 shows a plane view of how the wiring exists today,
this matches what is in the FSM, and I have physically traced these wires / cables
http://www.flickr.com/photos/13718356@N02/3684462729/


attachment 0005 shows what I plan to do,, battery in a "box" in the bed,
http://www.flickr.com/photos/13718356@N02/3685282806/

plan to go with a short section of 0 gage through the front bed wall, into the R Rear cab, split off to two 2 gage cables, one for the amp, other runs along inside floor, through the fire wall to the starter post, from there another 2 gage to a distribution block to pick up the other connections, from there to a relay block, starter relay exists now, will add relays in a bank for future HEI, electric rad fan, blower motor fix,,,,
**Do the wire gages I have listed look right?
***See any issues with connecting through the starter post, to complete the circuit from the distribution block to the battery?

For negative circuit, will go from the bed mounted battery to the right r frame, short piece of 0 gage, from the amp to the middle r side frame another short piece of 2 gage,engine to r front frame, another 2 gage, front body to frame 10 gage.


thanks

A few comments for what it's worth:

You may have thought of it, but I would *most strongly* suggest you consider fusible links or fuses for everything except the battery-to-starter run; you do not want a 100A breaker between the battery and the starter, as many starters draw >200A. Electrical fires are no fun, and the goal is to prevent a short somewhere from burning down the car.

Unless you worry your 1200W ??? amp might see a voltage drop during cranking, you need not change gauge between the battery and the starter (#2 OK, #0 better). I would also suggest you consider voltage spikes from the starter when cranking stressing your amp and maybe have it disabled when cranking.

You don't show your alternator-to-battery routing; if it is going to put out >>100A for your amp, you better consider that too.

For everything not concerned with the starter, amp, or alt, stock gauge ought to be fine unless the runs are very long.

Good luck.

Use a ford type solenoid next to the battery for the cable run to the starter.

Then smaller leads (fused) can be used for everything else.

_________________
Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

I would sugjest mounting the battery under the bed behind the cab,use a dry cell so it can be mounted side ways and use a 200 amp curcuit breaker(buy at an audio store)to the starter then use a run through the floor for the amp with its own fuse straight from the battery then run from starter to under hood distribution point, then ground battery to frame and motor to frame and a jumper to the cab from the frame 2 gauge would be sufficient 0 better. I used to intstall sound systems

_________________
Nick
86 d150 turbo /6.
64 valiant 4 door

good tip on the 200A breaker and thanks for the feedback on the 2 vs 0 gage cables,
part of the plan for all this is to clean up the wiring and do a nice install for relays for the HEI, electric cooling fan, AC compressor clutch... for that,,picked up a power control module from a 95 Caravan,
has openings for 9 relays, 7 30 to 40 amp fuses and 8 small blade fuses, got that and a two speed electric fan for 20.00 at the local pull a part,
I'll post more as this project moves along

http://www.flickr.com/photos/13718356@N ... 067917198/

nice, i havent messed with relays, but after talking a little with you and bruce think that i will add that into my plans, ill help what i can with yours and we can learn from any issues that come up

I'd think hard and long before routing a battery cable the way you described. A pickup's box moves around an awful lot while driving it around, and that's going to work the hell out of that cable and grommets between the box and cab.

Roger

I have considered running the cable to the starter under the cab, along the right side frame rail, but I still need to get up into the cab, to run power to the audio amp,, with the cable in the cab,from the bed, the cable is more protected from the elements. For the connector, from the bed to the cab,I am thinking of a low durometer rubber cylinder, hollowed so the cable passes through it, the rubber cylinder will be contained by a grommet in the cab wall and a grommet in the bed wall.
The actual cable routing is probably last, need to work out the relay wiring first.

*****************************************************

Fair enough......it's just that I don't know how much you know about such things, and I've seen some pretty shoddy "shade tree" automotive wiring in my time. You've obviously given it some thought and have a plan worked out.

Might I suggest a "primary" along the frame rail to the engine bay and starter connection, and a lead from the amp & amp fuses back to the battery. (I can't see the amp requiring a 2-guage cable, but I don't know the amp specs, either.)

Good luck.....Roger

I can follow that logic, powering the amp directly off the battery could better insulate it from any spikes in the system, and if the primary run was along the frame rail, it would be easier to inspect for damage, than if it was under the carpet...the 2 gage was selected for the amp connection, simply because, with the longer runs being that size, I was bound to have some left over for that short run ..
One common comment is that 2 gauge is OK, 0 is better,,, cable weight is not a concern, and I have now priced 2 and 0 gauge welding cable locally, nickels and dimes compared to the total price + time,,

thanks

using test leads connected the power module, ac compressor and fan assembly,, 1) unit responded with the ac compressor and low speed fan engaging , 2) removing power from the low speed and ac compressor coil, and energizing the high speed relay brings the fan to a high speed. Energizing both the ac coil and high speed circuit brings on a third level of fan speed.
Tested circuit safety by pulling fuses and verifying that continuity was broke either at the switch or device circuit where the fuse was removed.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/13718356@N ... 180997141/

first photo shows the compressor, power module and fan,,others are the power module and test wiring. Got this far using what I have read about relays on this forum and some intuition. Wrote out how the package was wired, next step will be to wire in an actual sensor ( simulate engine temp with a hot plate) and re hook up as recorded and verify circuites act as I expect.