I am having trouble getting all of the air out of the front brakes on my 60 valiant with 80 Mirada discs installed.I have all new parts from lines to hoses,new(not reman)1 1/32 master cylinder,reman calipers,all new lines and rubber hoses installed front and rear all new rear hardware including wheel cyliders,every thing ion the brake system is new or rebuilt.I did install a line lock and installed it correctly but still have a mushy pedal.The brakes stop well but have a mushy feel and longer stroke pedal than I like.I have manually bled,vacumm bled and gravity bled these brakes and cannot get them any better,is there a different procedure to use when a line lock is installed in the system.
I did have K-H 4 Piston brakes installed without the linelock but everything else the same and had great brakes,the only change was the linelock and single piston calipers.Can someone please help me,Ive never had this much trouble bleeding brakes.Thanks in advance.
HyperValiant

_________________
1960 Hyper-Pac Valiant(rolling test-bed)
1963 Valiant V2OO(Son's summer project,- he just turned 15 )
1972 Valiant 4dr(Daughter Kelly's repair in progress)
1974 Valiant (v8) daughter Kelly's work in progress

I do not have a line lock. It would seem like if you leave the line lock in the unlocked position you should be able to bleed the brakes in the normal way. With the line lock in the on position you should have the line for the front brakes sealed from the line lock solenoid to the front brakes.

_________________
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

This could very well be a front-rear proportioning issue. If that is not right, the pedal will feel mushy. You could try an adjustable valve in the rear line, or try swapping to smaller rear whl cyls.

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Lou,I already have an adjustable prop valve installed in the rear line but the rear brakes that came on my 8 1/4 rear were 11 inchers and I didnt have any 10 inch parts at the time to convert over.The shoes are adjusted properly and everything under the drums are new.could these big rear brakes be causing my problem and is there some smaller cylinders that I could install? I really dont want to invest in all new 10 inch stuff because I hope to do a 4 wheel disc setup in the future.Thanks

HyperValiant

_________________
1960 Hyper-Pac Valiant(rolling test-bed)
1963 Valiant V2OO(Son's summer project,- he just turned 15 )
1972 Valiant 4dr(Daughter Kelly's repair in progress)
1974 Valiant (v8) daughter Kelly's work in progress

is the plunger/actuation rod between ur M/C and ur pedal adjustable? having
just finished a front disc conversion myself, and having gone to the same size M/C u say u got, i found the plunger rod needed to be re-adjusted to get the proper feel.


D~~~!

_________________
68 A108
73 Harley Servicar
71 BMW R75/5
48 Indian Chief
2003 Ford Ranger XLT extra cab
1997 Geo tracker(Suzuki Sidekick)

Gato gets the prize(Im not sure what the prize is yet,but Gato gets it)!!
After my last post I changed the rear wheel cylinders to a smaller bore and felt a light increase,then changed to organic pads after reading some posts in the archives,no change.After spending several hours in the archives I realized that the MP adjustable pushrod wouldnt work,so I decided to sleeve and lengthen a spare rod I had.At first I made the rod a 1/2 inch longer and that was way too much,it set the pedal dangerously high,the I set it to a 1/4 longer and that was the magic number!Who would have thought that a 1/4 inch would make that much difference,the brakes have a much better feel and more sure stopping now.Now,I need to swap the metallic pads back on and fine tune the adjustable prop valve and be done.Thanks again for all the replys and suggestions.Good on ya.

HyperValiant

_________________
1960 Hyper-Pac Valiant(rolling test-bed)
1963 Valiant V2OO(Son's summer project,- he just turned 15 )
1972 Valiant 4dr(Daughter Kelly's repair in progress)
1974 Valiant (v8) daughter Kelly's work in progress