Right now it's not worth fussing with dwell angle. Set the points in the middle of the spec range (0.020") and see if the engine will start. You may want to install new points (NAPA Echlin #CS851 is first choice, Standard-BlueStreak #CH-14XV is second) and condenser (NAPA Echlin MO5 or Standard-BlueStreak AL-111X) before installing the dizzy.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

After installing the distributor and coil--original equipment from Joshua's Valiant--she fired right up! I let the engine warm up, and it never died. I haven't driven it yet, though, (too much stuff in the garage in the way).

The ballast resistor looked toasted, and I replaced that, too. Will a bad resistor fry the coil? Am I understanding correctly that the ballast resistor keeps the coil from overheating?

There is a problem, though. I have replaced the Holley 1920 with a Carter BBS. The linkage is blocked, preventing the curb idle screw from engaging its seat; the result from the engine's perspective is as though the idle screw is turned up too high:




How in the heck do I fix that? Is it because the linkage was set for the Holley, and different with the Carter? Is that bolt that's in the way supposed to be there, or did some one rig it like that?

Also, I think I have pinpointed the fuel leak on the carburetor. I originally thought I stripped the intake, but I checked several times during and after running the engine for wetness there, and it is dry. Here is where the leak is from:

Why would it leak there? What is that part?

Thanks!
Thomas

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1967 Barracuda 225

Aha...I think I figured out why the linkage is preventing the idle screw from seating: I used the thicker manifold gasket. Would that cause the problem? Is there a way to adjust that?

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1967 Barracuda 225

Looks like the bracket is bent inward a little for the kickdown. You can try twisting the bracket a bit until that bolt head clears the manifold. Then it should work. I can't say I've seen that type of fastener on kickdown linkage, but anything is possible.

As far as the thicker gasket, yea that would do it too, but there should be enough clearance for that to work even with the thicker gasket.

Apologies for not being able to reply and come take a look at it... been busy. When I get a chance, I would love to come up and meet you, and have a looky-see at your barracuda.



~THOR~

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Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
Too young to be slow, too old for high speed.

Sounds like you're well on your way to a complete fix. Time to think about an electronic ignition swap; points are a damnuisance. But for now it's running and that's the important part!

Thick gasket + '67 kickdown linkage is probably causing your binding; the '67 carb base gasket was about 5/16" thinner than the thick gasket. You can toss in the thin gasket for a hurry-up fix, but everything works better with the thick gasket so it's worth making that work in the long run. The problem is the pushrod that runs vertically from the carburetor's throttle lever to the bellcrank on the kickdown linkage bracket. This pushrod is a little too short for use with the thick gasket. You'll probably find the transmission upshifts too quickly and you may no longer have full-throttle kickdown. There are a few ways around this; probably the easiest is to grab the kickdown linkage assembly from a '70 or later 1bbl slant-6. Unlike the 2bbl pieces, which get snapped up in a hurry, the 1bbl pieces are everywhere and it should not be costly or difficult to find them. These later kickdown pieces are designed a little differently than the '67 setup (so best to use the whole setup), and the upper pushrod is longer for the thicker gasket.

Another option is to cut your existing upper pushrod, thread both cut ends (paying careful attention to left-hand and right-hand thread) and install a turnbuckle so you can adjust the length of this rod. The key here is finding a turnbuckle with a slim enough body that it won't jam on the intake manifold, and won't add too much length when both ends of the pushrod are threaded in all the way. Or you could make a new pushrod 1/4" longer than the existing pushrod, out of plain old brass rod stock from a well-stocked hardware store. Pick out the correct diameter rod so it fits in the holes and the clips attach to it. As you can see, it's just a simple rod with two 90° bends. You could easily make up a new one with an ordinary bench vise and sturdy pliers (maybe with a few blows from a hammer, too). Measure first, bend second, cut third. Come to think of it, that's probably your fastest and easiest fix: make a new rod.

Good spotting on the carb leak. That shouldn't be happening, but it's a very easy fix. Unfortunately the fix requires removing and opening up the carb. You remove the airhorn (top casting), remove the accelerator pump plunger and don't lose the check ball, remove the float retainer and the float. Place the carb upside down on a clean, flat surface: a sturdy, clean wooden board is good. Spray some brake(!) cleaner on the offending carb body plug and let it dry thoroughly. Apply a couple of drops of Loctite #242 (blue) to the exposed portion of the shank of the plug and use a hammer and punch to knock the plug a little tighter into the carb body. It's a tapered shank, so it will seal tighter as it's knocked in further. If you somehow spoil the plug and need a new one, NAPA has them: Echlin #27 (1/4"), #28 (9/32"), #29 (11/32"). The smaller one (3/16") is an Echlin #26.

Don't forget to oil and flare the accelerator pump plunger cup before reassembly, don't leave out the check ball(s), and use a new correct gasket between the air horn and middle casting.

(or if you think you can get a clear shot at it and nobody's looking, you might just leave the carburetor installed, shoot the brake cleaner and apply the Loctite #242 to the leaking plug, and use a long punch to give it a knock or two as it sits.)

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

So I hammered the plug in, but I was too impatient to get the lock-tite as suggested and it still leaks a little, but not as a drip, just wet, so far as I've seen, anyways. If I want to replace that plug, will I be able to punch it out from the inside of the carburetor when disassembled? I kind of made a mess out of it while hammering.

But I put the thinner gasket on to restore the idle, and boy what a thrill to finally get her back on the road! Runs better than ever! Really smooth.

Big thank you to all who've helped me!

Now I can focus on things I want to do, instead of things I have to do. I have a laundry list:

-the rain leaks in where the wiper arms enter the body (well, probably a "have to do")
-HEI conversion
-new wheels and tires
-want to replace the suspension joints and bushings and shocks
-new brakes
*body work, lots of rust under that vinyl top
-a couple interior rips
-then maybe think about the super six...

As far as the body work goes, I've heard plenty of horror stories about even reputable body shops. Plus, I don't have $5000 give or take to have it done. So...

Clackamas Community College has a program on Saturdays for people like me who want to "do it yourself", and learn how to do it. I've spoken on the phone a couple of times with the instructor, and he is a retired auto body teacher. They have all the equipment, including a $600k paint booth. I would certainly never try this on my own--did that once when I was 19, and ruined the car, (that was the last MoPar I owned: it was a 1966 Barracuda with a 225. ) And in spite of the reassurances from this instructor that it will be Ok, I am apprehensive about tearing into my car, especially with the memory of the last time I tried it.

When I described what needs to be done--probably replace the roof, and Wildcat has several--and strip two coats of paint and fix dings and quarter panel rust, he guessed that it would take a minimum of three school terms--about a year--if I am a fast worker. At about $300 a term, I'm thinking it's a good deal when also considering I'll be learning how to do it.

It makes me loose my breath when I think about what a huge endeavor this seems to be. But there really is a lot of rust under my vinyl top, and it will only grow, right? I will welcome any thoughts about this, as I am clearly torn. Is anyone in my region familiar with this class? Or people in other regions have something similar? Thanks again!

Thomas

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1967 Barracuda 225

Thomas,

Did you try the Holley 1920 I gave you by any chance? It might work for you while you get the BBS squared away.

I can help with the HEI when you're ready.

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Joshua

No. Dig it out from outside with a sharp flat screwdriver.

Tremendous!

Roof don't leak when there ain't no rain! Seriously, the wiper seal kits come from Schumacher (squint at the poorly-designed category column on the left and you'll find them)
Yeah, vinyl tops are extra-good at trapping water and rusting roofs.
What the hey, it's only money, right?
They're all true, and then some. Most of the body and paint guys I've known have been at least a quarter degree off plumb. Probably something to do with constant exposure to neurotoxic chemicals.
Perfect! Do it!

I will welcome any thoughts about this[/quote]

You might consider not replacing the vinyl roof. You could paint the roof a different colour from the body, or even simulate a vinyl roof with wrinkle-finish black paint…

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Already decided to 86 the vinyl. Spent a lot of time google-imaging pictures of '67-'69 Barracudas to see what color/style I like. Black looks bad-ass, but is the least forgiving as far as bodywork. Thinking about keeping the yellow...

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1967 Barracuda 225

Didn't try the Holley; probably will until I get the Carter tight.

Thanks for the offer to help with the HEI; I'll likely be taking you up on that.

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1967 Barracuda 225

I have taken the same class as you describe, just here in Salem, at Chemeketa Community College. My class wasn't as well-equipped as the one you have available seems to be. The instructor was a bit of a flake, but he is old and as Dan mentioned, "Neurotoxic Chemicals" probably had alot to do with it.

My suggestion would be to take the class. Learning how to do it yourself is the cheapest way out of just about anything.

~THOR~

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Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
Too young to be slow, too old for high speed.

Years ago, I painted houses for a living. We did interiors of new homes, and we sprayed all the wood work with lacquer. I had a respirator, but construction workers gotta be tough guys, and if you wore your respirator, you got picked on. So I was high every day that we sprayed. Horrible stuff, wicked hang-overs. I was young and stupid. Then I quit that job and went to college.

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1967 Barracuda 225