Didn't all fullsize 1/2 to Dodge trucks up to the late '90's come with 8 3/4 rears? If they did, would it be cost effective to just narrow one of those to put under our a body's? I know where a few are around here I could pick up for almost free.

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To each his own (so what if I wanna build a 450 horse MPFI turbo /6 instead of using a V-8!)

I wish. They got the 8 1/4 (8 .375) staring no later than '73, but there was some overlap. I think '74 was the last year for the 8 3/4 in the D100. The 8 1/4 and 9 1/4 replaced the 8 3/4.

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Joshua

Just pulled one from a B van. It had a 5/74 build date. AFAIK was a Canadian built van. That rear could have been swapped in as it was a late 74.

Pricewise? A rears are going for $500 or more. For $600 you can put together a rebuilt narrowed rear with new bearings. if you can get one free? snag it! Many have suregrips and nice 3:23 or 3:55's.

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

hey an 8 1/4 would be cool, if it will stand up to truck duty, it will take the abuse of a slant!

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To each his own (so what if I wanna build a 450 horse MPFI turbo /6 instead of using a V-8!)

An 8.25 sure grip will easily handle a serious slant, easily good for 350+ hp.

With that kinda strength, there's no point in putting an 8.75 in. They are simply to expensive to fool with in a /6 car, unless you are running a highly boosted combo or you are throwing the nitrous to it.

Merril Bruner said I'd be fine running an 8.25 rear in my drag project, and thats good enough for me. Besides, I already got 4.56 gears

Now I gotta get a sg unit, which is less than half the price of an 8.75 SG unit.

One big advantage for an 8 3/4 is the ability to quickly and easily change the center section. You can drive highway gears to the track then put in your drag gears. Or you can play with different ratios. The 3rd member can be swapped pretty easily in less than an hour. It's also a lot easier to set up on the workbench. You do pay a premium in weight though. Those suckers are heavy!

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

how will I know if the 8 1/4 has a sure grip, other than pulling the cover?

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To each his own (so what if I wanna build a 450 horse MPFI turbo /6 instead of using a V-8!)

Jack it up and spin one tire, see what the other does.

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

Done that several times, I even borrowed a set of 3.91's from Charlie, he brought them all the way from Florida to Pittsburgh for me.

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If I want to put an 8.75 rear end on my 74 Scamp, what car would I get it off of without having to shorten or modify one?

Thanks
*Rogue

Any Dart/Valiant/Barracuda from the 60s that had one. Problem is, without modifying the rear axle, you will need to run small bolt pattern rims. There were never any factory 8 3/4 A-body rear axles with the large bolt pattern. It you want the larger bolt pattern you will have to get some aftermarket axles or longer axle shafts out of a truck/van/bigger car and get them cut down and resplined. Too much work in my opinion. Just get an 8 1/4. Realistically, if you aren't a drag racer, how often do you really change your gear ratio?

Errr... I tend to change gear ratios ever time I go on a long road trip, or change jobs, or just feel like changing the "personality" of the car.
An 8 3/4 allows me the option to do that.

One other thing I like about the 8 3/4, that is their taper-roller type axle bearings with end play adjustment... not a ball bearing.
(I will never unstand why people would want to use those "Green" bearings on an 8 3/4)

Got to go... I need to swap gear ratios before dinner!
DD

Hmmm. Maybe I'm just lazy.

An easier rear to find is a 65-66 and maybe 67 B body rear. I have one that I will someday drop into my Duster. Big bolt pattern too!

Swap meet $125-225.

You might have to use some wheels with some extra offset.

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

Ran a '66 b-body rear in my '71 duster.you must cut and relocate the spring perches,and it's 1 1/2 wider per side.I used steel 15x7 jeep wrangler wheels,$10 each at a salvage yard.It looked corny,but that was cheap racing 20 years ago,Hey,b-body rears were $50,and a-body rears were $150,darned if I was paying that much!

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V8?? We don't need no stink'n V8!!