I also could not get the newer style mocule to work so I swapped in the older style module. As far as the coil to distributer wire, I simply took the coil end off of the GM wire and crimped on the MOPAR end. Going to take the car for a spin tonight after dinner. I'll try and post a pic of my handiwork then.

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Yeah, I'm going to try a few things tonight with the newer module and if that does not work I will buy the older module tomorrow.

Do you recall which ways you tried to wire the newer module?

Pics eh, that would be nice!

I took the pink from the modue and coil together with the the blue power wire from the ignition, the white with black stripe from coil and module together and the black and white wires to the distributer.

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I was prepared to make the 97 Olds Bravada coil work with the LX-301 module but since the Magnecor wires came with an HEI coil end connector I went to Napa and got a Blaster 3. The Blaster 3 fits the stock mount perfect and the tall tower clears everything great. I was not too happy about having to go buy a new made in China coil but I made the mistake of mentioning the word HEI when I asked for the coil end. "Make it like an 97 Olds Bravada HEI". Live and learn eh?

The module heatsink took some grinding to fit the LX-301 but it looks pretty good. When I run all new wiring this winter it won't matter though since I think I will be hiding it out of site instead of right on my fender without a coil attached.

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74 Dodge Charger 225 factory A/C auto 1920 carb stock exhaust.

Mods;
HEI, MSD B3, Magnecor 8 mm, ZFR5N, .060 rotor, CH410X cap, new 3874814 dist, fuel mod, valves hot .010 & .020, all new hoses, JP chain, brake hoses and fluid.

Intresting setup, how is the relay wired up? (where?)

When the question first came up about the newer module (the one mounted on the heat sink with the coil) I tried it out on a bench test setup.
Spining the distributer by hand, I did have a spark. Since then I have done some more research, and have concluded that is not the module to use. The newer style module gets its trigger from the computer, and it is a 0-5 volt square wave (think digital signal). The mopar distributer puts out more of a sine wave type signal, and the voltage output will increase with rpm (think analog signal). I am using the early type module on the newer heat sink (requires minor mods to the heat sink).

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Thanks, CS. I've edited the HEI upgrade article with your findings.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Don't know if this is the place or not, but here's another HEI conversion. Recently our old mopar module let go and we replaced it with an HEI module in a road side fix while at a show. I finally got around to finishing it up, putting it a neat case we sell, and neatening the wiring up.

Neat way to conceal the HEI module.
new number is 1-888-809-3835 toll free....


Little die-electric grease.


All mounted up and wiring neatened up.

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Linder Tech.com
Bubba's Trailer Park

..dosent the coil and module come in the dist on gm? And most important can we use those....been a long time sinse I looked under a chevy..

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Its so nice out side, I think I'll go lay under my car..

The problem with the coil-in-the-cap style is that there is no where to connect the coil wire to. that coil discharges directly to the rotor inside the cap.

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but the module in side the cap can?? I'm going to a u pull it to get connecters and whatever else I can

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Its so nice out side, I think I'll go lay under my car..

Correct, but we're using just a standard low resistance coil that we were already using with the mopar module.

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Linder Tech.com
Bubba's Trailer Park

The module is still inside the cap but I dont use that style module. I like to use the 4 pin module that has an external coil. The last one I pulled came off of a pontiac T1000(Chevette). The coil is a bit of a PITA since it is under the intake and held on with 3 bolts that only 1 can be seen. The wires are long enough that you dont need to cut or add your own connectors between the module and coil. That is what is powering my Swinger now.

If you look at the last post in the "HEI electronic ignition discussion" thread you can see a pic of what I have on my Swinger now.

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Thanks alot for all the info, the sticky post it seems has all the info after all..I just needed the odd ball questions answered. Thanks for putting up with and helping out with the details. I have been reading this forum for some time now and but havent joined till now. what a great place and the folks seem like good people to hang out with..thanks again

new dist. should be into to day Im going to give the HEI a go.

PS. when I was about 12 Years old my uncle told me, the only way to test the spark on old cars is to hold the end of the plug wires while some one turns the car over..do I still have to do that?.....

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Its so nice out side, I think I'll go lay under my car..

Owww that was cruel !!!!!
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered