I've upgraded the '64 Valiant with the raybestos dual resivoir per ssdan's suggestion, split the front lines thru the distribution block and ran the rears straight to the wheels. Replaced all brakes pads and all four wheel cylinders. The brakes seem to work great after two to three inches of pedal travel. The connection between the m/c and the pedal is not adjustable. How do I get rid of this initial pedal travel?

Thanks,
Jeff

Anybody ??????

One of 2 things is happening. Either the brakes need to be adjusted or you need to swap out the brake pedal push rod. It the brakes will "pump up" then you might be able to resolve the problem with a an adjustment. It the play is for certain between the pedal and master cylinder then a push rod change will be needed. I believe an adjustable pushrod is in existence but I don't know where you might be able to find one.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

Thats backwards...front should have full power and the Rear should have the dist. block..(get an adjustable one)

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Its so nice out side, I think I'll go lay under my car..

Maybe not, if he has drums all around then the distro block doesn't proportion anything, it's just a distro block with holes. My guess is he blocked one hole off (that used to run to the rear) and then fed the rear brakes directly out of it's own reservoir.

Thropar, you are exactly correct. Maybe I'll contact Raybestos to see if they have an adjustable push rod.

Jeff
[/quote]

I know that Mancini Racing has adjustable pushrods, I think they are about $48.

Hmmmm drum brakes....yup sorry...what would the reason to split the front and run the rears direct? (just a guess but...to even out the front pressure..no more suprising pull to one side??)

like my momma usta say son your advise is worth just about what I paid for it...

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Its so nice out side, I think I'll go lay under my car..

The reason for splitting the fronts from the back is to have seperate hydraulic circuits so that id one fails you still have brakes on the remaining circuit. It's a safety feature.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

is there anyway possible to shorten the pushrod? Would a single pot manual pushrod work in place of a dual pot manual pushrod? I'm just throwing this out-- never heard of your dilemana.

I know on brand x cars the brake pedal arm has different holes for manual vs power brakes. Lawrence

If there's excessive play in the pedal then the pushrod is too short. If it were too long then you might be able to shorten it. The problem with that is that the end of the pushrod is machined to lock into a rubber o-ring. This prevents the rod from slipping out of the back of the MC when the pedal is released. Needless to say, that would not be a good thing.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

You could cut and re-weld (shorten or lengthen) in the middle to keep the machined area in the front for the rubber keeper. Maybe see if the pedal has another hole as stated above, for power/manual holes? I vaguely remember dual holes on some pedals but not sure if the early ones had this.

Just a link to Dr. Diff's adjustable brake pushrod w/heim joint

http://tinyurl.com/msyyh6

his site is
http://www.doctordiff.com

Cool part. Dr. Diff is awesome.

I called up once and a woman answered and I said "Is this Dr. Diff?"
She said "No, but this is Dr. Diff's Mom. I'll go get him."

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Yep he is. Cass can talk your head off with all the options available for your project and will be happy to make one off custom pieces for you at reasonable prices if need be.