As with many of us here, buying reman carb in hopes that it will bolt-on and work, is a fool's errand.

I have never purchased a reman carb, though I have rebuilt my fair share of reman carbs.

I am still running the Holley 1920 I built/modified for my '66 Valiant, and it has gone from there to my '71 Dart, and now is atop my '74 Swinger.

Great carb if the carb is in great shape!

~THOR~

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1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

I've only bought 1 reman. carb. Carter bbs rebuilt by holley. bought from parks auto parts. 6 yrs ago. It's about due for a rebuild now, but it's served me well. Maybe I should get a rebuild kit and try it myself?

that or send it to a reputable rebuilder, dont turn it in for an exchange one.

best username on the site BTW.

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

I bought a rebuilt by a small carb shop 1920 and it works fine. It replaced an original 1945 in my '74 Dart. I pulled it apart to inspect it before putting it on. Had to replace on gasket that wasent replaced during the rebuild. Next time I will rebuild my own, but I didnt have a 1920 at the time so I got this one at a local car show swap meet.

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Grandpa's 1974 Dart Custom 4 door 225 auto, Aluminum Radiator, 1920 Holley.

Ive had very bad rebuild carb experiences.. my first Holley 1920 rebuilt carb from Kragen was immediately junked, it was even MISSING PARTS. So i called holley to see if they would sell me the said missing parts, and they said they dont sell those..

Second one from kragen was missing a curb idle screw ((HOW DO YOU MISS THAT?!)) so I went to orchard and tried to get a right sized screw that would fit with the carb, seems none of them have the right threads or they are the wrong size, so i tried using nuts to keep it there so that didnt work well, so i called holley again ((I have them on speed dial now.)) and they wont sell me a curb idle screw.

I had better luck on my current third one, but not enough: I got another but some of the screws where loose ((Other than theirs.)) so i applied lock washers and it ran perfectly fine with good gas mileage. It only lasted me 5 months until now as of this date. We figured out that the fuel passage has been clogged up so i took the float bowl cover off and used carb cleaner on the passage, After that it ran fine, then a day later it was working fine this morning until i drove around and it started to bog down like hell, same symptoms as a clogged fuel passage, so i decided to do a partial rebuild and clean everything that i could take apart inside the guts.

That made it run better but now we had an issue of a certain vaccuum forcing the car to stall, if i plug the vaccuum it will not stall at all and drive normally, so we put on a gasket that covers the vacuum but we thing it is too thin to help anyways, the car also has a higher idle now.

We plan to put a thicker gasket and see where that goes, if it still does it all i can say is this:

WANT TO HIRE REPUTABLE REBUILDER, PLEASE SEND PM!

I just learned that the remanufactered carbs are crap on crap ((Unless you get extremely lucky and find one where they actually use the right parts, but what are the chances of that?))

I think rebuilding carbs the right way will be a good business, can make big money off that.

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71 dodge dart custom

1988 Honda Civic ((Because racecar))

2005 VW Jetta

1963 AMC Rambler American 440

It would be a good business, but lots of odds and ends that sink these businesses are prevalent in this kind of work... The price to pay for excellent service almost rates up there with buying a new 2 barrel, the rebuilder is good, but what goes on after the service...it's cleaned out it's regasketed, the settings are all benchmarked, if you sent it off to a service can the rebuilder test the carb on a test engine to make sure it actually does work after it's been rebuild, if you sent the carb via shipping the service can't test it and send it to you, as gasoline residue is a no-no with FedEx/UPS/USPS... Service after the sale: if it wasn't tested and the client returns it saying "I couldn't get it to work...", does the service have to charge more to have another carb on hand to send if the carb itself is defective? Or, does the service just put a disclaimer in their agreement that says they aren't responsible for problems after the rebuild (so essentially you pay the $$$ and if the carb is found to be crap you're out the $$$, and the service suffers because they get a reputation for occassionally rebuilding a pile of junk that didn't function after the rebuild...)

The best service I had was a local mom and pop auto repair shop, that also wanted the car so they could rebuild test, and also tune it for the price, the catch was you had to have 2 more cores incase core # 1 was toast...

-D.Idiot

that solved like 1/100 of what i wanted solved, what you think i should do with the carb?

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71 dodge dart custom

1988 Honda Civic ((Because racecar))

2005 VW Jetta

1963 AMC Rambler American 440

1. 1945 and 1920 Holley's, Carter AVS, Holley 600's, 750's
2. on my 74 Swinger, 69 Chrysler 300, 72 Imperial
3. myself
4. very well, perfectly!

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

1. What model of carburetor? Holley 1920, 49-state spec.
2. What engine and car was it on? 1973 Dodge Dart 225/904
3. Who rebuilt it - yourself, a friend, a professional carb specialist, or bought one from a chain parts store like Autozone, etc? Purchased from AutoZone, rebuilt by Holley in Memphis, TN. Completion by self
4. How well did it work after rebuilding? This isn't so simple to answer directly. First off, I bought the rebuild because the accelerator pump on the one that came with the car was toast from day one. When originally installed, it worked well. I was tickled pink to have a working accelerator pump. It began swilling fuel and leaving a big carbon spot on the drive almost immediately.

I had never rebuilt a 1 bbl Holley before which was another reason why I bought a rebuild. In no way do I consider myself a carburetor whiz, but I'm 4 of 5 in terms of opening one up and have it work better when I finished and closed it up. (The failure is a Rochester 2CG FWIW.)

I downloaded rebuild instructions from this site (thanks, Dan) and read other contributions to this thread. My suspicion was the carburetor was jetted waaay too rich. While I was researching for the correct jet, the carb began spewing fuel out of the bowl vent. The car went non-op.

Rather than go through serial rebuilds, I pulled the carb and began a careful dissection. It didn't take long to figure it out. The carb had been jetted with a 65 when it should have had a 52. There went the fuel use and black spot. A circlip had been left off of the float hinge pin. The float was held on the pin by the back edge of the float arm. This condition prevented the fuel bowl from being over-filled. It ain't comin' off now unless someone goes in there and yanks the clip I installed off of it.

With those two items addressed, the car seems to run fine. I'm going on a trip soon, so I'll found out if the fuel swill issue is resolved at that time. The black belch from the tail pipe and the raw fuel coming out of the bowl vent are gone.

12/31/09 Update. Got 'em. No carburetion problems at all. Fuel mileage much better, but still a little low, may be due to NO manifold heat. Still glad I got a rebuild, don't know how I would have done with the original accelerator pump issue. Thanks to folks on this site who advised on other threads that re-builds are not always done right for A particular engine. I kind of resent being told a re-build carb is done properly (missing circlip).

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You can't fix stupid. - Ron White

i had 2 reman 1920 1st flooded badly exchanged it for another couldn't get engine to run. got my core back then cracked it open rebuilt it bushed the throttle shaft up ran OK got reman carter bbs that currently keeping my papers from blowing away currently using the 1st holley 1920 i thought about using a 5200 off a pinto i bought a adapter from stovebolt engine company but it would need some modifications to work right

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85 d-100 HEI 2BBl
06 Toyota Corrola

Try to use a reputable rebuild shop.

I bought it from ross auto parts in chillicothe. They said it was a champion rebuild, hear in southern ohio I'm limited to autozone, advance, napa, and O'Reilly. I think they get the cheapest stuff that can be found to keep there overhead down.

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85 d-100 HEI 2BBl
06 Toyota Corrola

Holley 1920
68 Dodge Dart 225
Myself /GP Sorensen kit Autozone
Works fine

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68 225 Dart "life under the hood, is the life for me" -By Me

Carter BBS
1963 Valiant
Carquest
Works fine.

Carter BBS
1963 Valiant
Autozone
Works fine.

Rebuilt several other carbs for early A's over the years myself. No problems with the Carters, never much cared for the H*lleys.

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Oh, bad memory, I just recalled that the second Carter I listed is no longer in that car, it is now in the '60 Valiant in my siggy.
Still no problem.

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