I've got to replace the leaf springs on my dart. How difficult is that to do? I'm mechanically inclined and I've got the gamut of tools including air tools. I've gotten all of the parts from ESPO. Are there any tips, tricks, or things to watch out for? I'm replacing the springs, mounting brackets on both ends, bolts, u bolts, and shock mounting plates. Do I need to support the body as well as the rear end when I'm pulling them off? I plan on doing one at a time. Should I pull them both off, then put them both on at the same time?

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'66 Dart 270 convertible, 225, stock

I think I would:
1. jack the car up and put jackstands under the frame part of the body, front and back
2 remove rear wheels and unbolt lower part of shock from axle plate.
3jack up rearend a bit and place two jackstands under the axle tubes toward the springs but not under them. maybe one jackstand under the nose of the pinion just to be safe
4 cut the U-bolts {trust me on this they are a pain in the %@# to unbolt}
aquire new U-bolts and nuts
5 unbolt the front spring hanger from the body and the rear spring shackles also from frame
6 transfer the hangers and shackles to the new springs {might need press}
7 reverse order of above directions.
{you could do this one at a time, would probably be easier}

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1979 W150 Shortbox
225, NP435, 9 1/4, Dana 44

The Good Life.

theomahamoparguy: Use grade 8 washers on U bolts. Take one spring off at a time and reassemble before starting other side. A small hydraulic bottle jack will help to align axel to pin on spring. You most likely won't need a press for the rear shackle bushings.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

The whole process is detailed very well in Tom Condran's book 'Performance Handling for Classic Mopars'. ... I just did it with ESPO springs as well, and it was a piece of cake.

edit: I pulled the book out of the Dart and typed it up below. Hope it helps.

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i pull rears and leaf springs almost daily @ work .... keep in mind they are all mopar.

the 8 & 3/4 rear is harder to pull because everything is bigger, even the u bolts. the 7 & 1/4 is easy.

so here is how i do it:

disconnect the ebarke cables

disconnect the brake line hose from the rear T block

remove the shocks .. keep the shock washers and bolts

i heat the U bolt nuts with a torch and once they are hot i blaze them off with an impact. a breaker bar and pb blaster works but takes more time.

after that lift out the rear and remove the bolts from each end of the leaf springs.

i upgraded my springs to formula s cuda 6 leaf.

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"Marilyn" 64 Dart GT & "Stella" 64 Valiant V100 Sedan - 63 Norton Project

Here is the step-by-step from Tom Condran's book.

1. Securely block up rear axle.
2. Brush clean all threads at lower shock mount, axle U-clamps, and front hangar studs. Spray all exposed threads with PB Blaster.
3. Crack loose the nut on the lower shock mount, but leave it on for now.
4. Remove the four nuts from the bottom of the U-clamps. They are 11/16" on 7 1/4 axles, 3/4" on others. Consider the special technique detailed below.
5. Remove the shock from the base plate. Lift U-clamps straight up. From now on keep out from under the axle and spring. They can fall at any time.
6. With a short extension on the ratchet, remove the four 9/16" nuts from the front spring hangar. Deepwell sockets work best.
7. Using a pair of long socket extensions, and wrenching from the wheelwell, remove the two 9/16" bolts from the rear hangar at the chassis, bottom bolt first. Danger! Keep your body out form under the spring. When the top bolt comes loose, the back half of the spring will fall, fast.
8. Check that the axle is balanced on the support.
9. Square up the front hangar with a pry bar so the studs can slide straight out without mousing the threads.
10. Lift the rear of the spring a bit and work the assembly back and out.


Special suggestions for Step 4:
*Wire brush every exposed thread, all the way around. Go back with a fine bristle detail brush and PB Blaster until you can see the bottom of the threads. Any dirt left in the threads will jam the nuts.
*Have a breaker bar or socket arm extender ready at hand.
*Slip a deep-well socket and long-handled ratchet on the first nut. Wrap the handle with a rag.
*Seat yourself before the ratchet as if it were a one oar of a rowing machine.
*Ratchet with a steady, rhythmic quarter pulls. The nut will come easy at first, but it stiffens up the more turns you take.
*Do not stop the rhythm! Keep pulling even though the threads start binding and the socket heats up. If you stop, the nut will seize and you will have a problem.
*Get your back into it and add an extender (quickly) if necessary, but keep pulling steadily. The nut will come off eventually, perhaps damaged, but off.


I kept the book open to this page while I did mine, and it all came off without a hitch. Worth every penny I spent on the book.

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Thank you very much for the step by step. Got one off.....but.....the replacements I bought over a year ago are not the right size. I believe I bought them from JC Whitney. All the other hardware I got from ESPO. All of the hardware looks perfect. Now the question is what the h@## do I do with these springs that do not fit my car and I can't return them??? And where do I get springs that may actually fit my car!?!?!? I'm just out side of DC in Northern Virginia. Thanks again for the help.

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'66 Dart 270 convertible, 225, stock

Posion
Someone else had the same problem with JC Whitless. They made them replace the springs with the correct pair. SS Dan had where JC got there springs from..... Maybe do a search. I think the company is in Detriot.
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

It's actually been over 2 years since I bought these springs. I can't return them, JC Whitney no longer even sells them! I've found a place that looks like they have what I need, The Suspension King. The rather precise measurements match up just right.

Does anyone need a new pair of JCW springs? They are 4 leaf springs, JCW part no. 967570. I'll ship them if you want to pay. I'd rather unload them locally (Fairfax, VA). Make me an offer.

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'66 Dart 270 convertible, 225, stock

I had the exact same issue with good ol' JC and I'm not the only one over there with the same issue.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/sho ... hp?t=17909

Of course they actually did me a favor because I opted for the 5 leaf ones instead...from a different supplier.

I'm convinced that the oval front eye is off of an aspen or volare.
Might be easier to sell if you were positive what they belong on.

It's done! Got both of the springs on this weekend. The rear end sits about 3" higher than before and the ride is soooo much better. It actually was not as difficult as I thought it would be. Air tools were a huge plus for this. The tips and step by step posted here earlier were VERY helpful. Thank you all for the information.

As for selling the wrong ones from JCW, if I knew what cars they fit, I would let you know. I have no idea at this point, and I don't really know where to look. JCW no longer even sells them. They did give me a $25 gift certificate to use..... Any leads anyone can give to find out what cars these things fit would be appreciated.

Next up, front suspension refrub/rebuild!!

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'66 Dart 270 convertible, 225, stock

Glad to hear of the install success! The front is a lot more fun As for the springs, take some pictures and some measurements:
Measure:
1. Front eye hole size
2. total length.
3. front eye to axle alignment pin
4. rear eye to axle alignment pin
5. width.

With that information in hand and some research you should be able to figure it out

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My '73 "Gold" Duster /6
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2789359

Oh joy! I just did that myself as well. Ask away if you have questions, it's all still fresh in my brain.

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My advice on working on the front end is to do yourself a favor and get one of those wheel bearing packer tools. The kind that put the bearing in two cups and you use a big syringe to inject the grease. Way easier than the old glob of grease on the palm method.

I put it in a inside out baggie that's in my hand.............

Then turn it rightside out / seal and toss the baggie.


Or latex gloves, same idea

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes