Just like the title reads,would the K-1 piston and rod combo be a good setup for a engine that will see alot of street miles as well as some drag racing and maybe some road racing? It has been suggested by some local engine builders(mainly chebby guys) that an aluminum rod might not be the hot ticket for street use and that longevity might be an issue.
Any and all thoughts on this subject are welcome.Thanks in advance.

HyperValiant

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1960 Hyper-Pac Valiant(rolling test-bed)
1963 Valiant V2OO(Son's summer project,- he just turned 15 )
1972 Valiant 4dr(Daughter Kelly's repair in progress)
1974 Valiant (v8) daughter Kelly's work in progress

K1's are not aluminum, but are billet steel, so no issues there.

K1/Wiseco say they're fine for the street. I'm going to find out...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I concur with Lou. I will find out as well.
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

These parts are stronger then anything the factory made so I would not be worried about breaking anything.

The only possible longevity concern is that the K-1 con rods do not have oil spurt holes so there is a reduced amount of oil getting up onto the cylinder walls. Also remember that these pistons use the narrow rings and these rings tend to wear-out faster / sooner.
(I put 80K on a narrow ring, stroker engine and the rings were still sealing. I changed them anyway when "freshing-up" the engine, after it blew a head gasket)

So I am another "I will soon find out"... seeing that the Buster engine build I am now finishing-up, does not use oil spurt holes.
Will there be enough oil thrown around from other sources, to keep the pistons and rings "happy"? We will "soon find out"!
DD

I too would like to find out as soon as I can get the cash in hand. Would it be difficult/expensive to have a machinist modify the K1 rod with a oil spurt hole? Thanks, Wayne.

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66 Lil' Red Piggie Valiant (Mater Crusher) - Thanks Zilla!!!!! 72 Demon (Number 1 Son's)

Even if they were aluminum they would be fine on the street. The problem is with motors that turn a lot of RPM, which a Chevy does, and a Slant does not.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Thanks for the replys.I dont know why I was thinking that the K-1 rods were aluminum.The reason for asking is that I may be putting together a new slant with the goal being a quick revvin torquey engine with an honest 190-200 rwh but with good reliability cause I wont get a chance like this again for a long time.I would probably have a 2500-3000 dollar budget but already have several peices for the build but the K-1 setup will eat a big chunk of that .I will be asking for suggestions and a recipe outline as well as what I really want the car to do at a later date.
Thanks
HyperValiant

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1960 Hyper-Pac Valiant(rolling test-bed)
1963 Valiant V2OO(Son's summer project,- he just turned 15 )
1972 Valiant 4dr(Daughter Kelly's repair in progress)
1974 Valiant (v8) daughter Kelly's work in progress

If all you want is 200 RWHP, then just stick with stock 225 rods and cast pistons. Not worth it to get the high $$ pistons+rods. This is not a trivial buildup, but it is well within the stock bottom end range. I would limit RPMs to 5600-5800 and get lower end parts balanced.

That said, you will save something like $500-700 by using stock rods+pistons. For that extra $$ it would be some insurance and will probably free up 5-10 HP in ring drag and such.

Headwork is where you should spend $$. Talk to Mike Jeffrey... You can get a really nice head done quite reasonably.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988