I am always asking around and always follow-up on leads for odd SL6 parts...
The head in this build came thru Steve Magnante, ex Hot Rod magazine writer and still a genuine car nut, with lots of contacts.
And yes, this head "went out the back door" instead of into the scrap barrel.
DD

A guy I work with is building a 1939 ford flathead and he found a junkyard in NC to get parts.....he told me that at one corner there is nothing but /6 stuff...he figured 2-3 acrs of cars and piles of engins and parts.....we are going to check it out next week.....hope to find some goodies...
Doc, that is an amazing amount of reciprocating weight reduction......as fast as it will rev, what ignition are you using and what advance mechanisum?.......I love this Frankenstien stuff......

_________________
64 A100 PU 170 /6
Salisbury, NC

are you talking about whites service station and auto salvage?

_________________
What's that fuzzy blue thing being hurled this way?
::stick::
BOOSH!!!

Don't know the name of the place, but it's near Rockwell, NC.......it's one of those places that you have to know somebody to get beyond the counter........my co-worker knows somebody and was able to find a fuel injection rig off a 40 something Biuck that bolts on to his Stromburg manifold on his flathead......musch work and guess work will be required, but he is game.......he knows I'm a nut because all I have been able to talk about is /6 s since I bought my little A100......
Doc,
At 272.6, do you think you'll be able to get 1 HP per pound. Pretty trick. Would love to stuff that in my old front engine rail.....
Thanks for all the fun....

_________________
64 A100 PU 170 /6
Salisbury, NC

Buster will not get to 272.5 HP, the induction side is not that big.
(2 BBL carb, "street performance" cam & stock valve size in the head)

The big challenge with any aluminum block SL6 engine is keeping the head gasket sealed. Buster is a worry because this engine runs 9.5 to 1 compression. (I usually build an Alm. SL6 at a true 8.5 to 1 C/R and never had long term head gasket sealing success with anything over 9 to 1)

If we can come-up with a way to keep the head gasket sealed on these engines, at higher compressions, that will allow for higher power output.
DD

Well, I just had Mike do me a good 1.70/1.44 head for my 3.440" bore alum engine to hit 9.2:1.

Hoping this will seal OK and make 225-250 HP. You using ARP head studs? What torque on the bolts (or nutz)?

Looking forward to more Buster reports...

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Yes, ARP studs / nuts that I currently have torqued to 55 ftlbs.
The special aluminum block head gasket received a light coating of Copper Coat spray sealer right before it went onto the engine.
I will start the engine and give it a short heat cycle, then check head stud torque, at 55 ftlbs.
Restart the engine give it a few more heat cycles, as I tune it and re-adjust valve lash, recheck all bolts, etc. then see if I can re-torque a little tighter, may-be get to 60 ftlbs. We just have to "get there" and see how it feels.

I am making good progress... have some additional photos in the camera that I will post tonight. Buster should start and run this weekend.
DD

Thanks, Doug. I may try to get a set of those ARP studs/nuts.

My guess is my first Al motor (forged crank) will go together next spring or summer, then I'll start thinking about a cast crank version.

Hopefully turboram or someone will help get Cometic to produce MLS head gaskets (assuming Aussie gaskets are not true MLS...).

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Yes, you should build an aluminum block SL6... it is the "next step" after you have done a few of the cast iron ones but they are more challenging and expensive to build.

And yes, anyone who works on getting a special head gasket designed and made needs to design it around the Alm. SL6 pattern seeing that the aluminum block "footprint" works fine on a cast iron engine but a cast iron head gasket does not completely cover the deck on the aluminum block.
DD

Doc
Are the Alum head gaskets a "steel shim" type or a composite. I have seen alum blocks before but cant remember a head gasket. How long do these gaskets last?
Frank

_________________
Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

The aluminum SL6 head gasket is a special composite gasket.

It has a perforated steel core, sandwiched with an asbestos composite, then a solid copper sheet on the block side, the copper is rolled over to the head side to make a double thickness copper fire ring, around each bore.

The shape difference can be seen in these photos, the gasket extends out into the lifter gallery which follows the shape of the open deck aluminum block. A cast iron block head gasket is straight across in the area and leaves a gap, letting water thru.
DD

I knew the engine set-back decision was going to slow down this job and I was right.

The bellcrank for the shifter was tilted to the rear and a bit low so I had to do some "modification" to the bracket the holds it onto the bellhousing side.

My hacksaw and arc welder made fast work of moving the bracket's eyelet into the correct spot and now the shift linkage is hooked-up.
DD

Trans is all hooked-up, as well as all the other "under car" stuff so the vehicle is back on the ground.

Here is a good tip...
I alway cut-out the two thru holes in the front trans. dust cover. Doing this modification allow the cover to be removed and re-installed, with-out removing the two bolts holding the support bracket. Basically, the notched shield slips-in, around the bracket and the two small, lower bolts hold it in place.
DD

Man, I don't remember the last time I used one of those covers on one of my cars - 1992?

I expect nothing less from you, Doug!

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

My Dacuda is so darn low to the ground, I worry that the flex plate / converter assembly could "scoop-up" unwanted roadway items... so I run the cover.

Some argue that leaving the cover off helps converter cooling but have have no info to back-up that claim.
DD