Does anyone have the pt.no. for the 9.25 clutch from Spec and if you are using one how do you like it?Thanks in advance.
HyperValiant

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1960 Hyper-Pac Valiant(rolling test-bed)
1963 Valiant V2OO(Son's summer project,- he just turned 15 )
1972 Valiant 4dr(Daughter Kelly's repair in progress)
1974 Valiant (v8) daughter Kelly's work in progress

I have one of the clutches, and I love it. Light, strong enough for anything i am doing, works well.

Part number-- Not sure. Call Matt Rocksvold at (800) 828-4379, and ask him what he thinks you need. He had a lot of options available.

Greg Mader

Gmader,thanks for the reply,Ill give Matt acall tomorrow.
HyperValiant

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1960 Hyper-Pac Valiant(rolling test-bed)
1963 Valiant V2OO(Son's summer project,- he just turned 15 )
1972 Valiant 4dr(Daughter Kelly's repair in progress)
1974 Valiant (v8) daughter Kelly's work in progress

Greg,
I spoke with Matt today and he was realy helpful.Ill be sending a money order tomorrow for a stage 3 clutch kit.Thanks.
HyperValiant

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1960 Hyper-Pac Valiant(rolling test-bed)
1963 Valiant V2OO(Son's summer project,- he just turned 15 )
1972 Valiant 4dr(Daughter Kelly's repair in progress)
1974 Valiant (v8) daughter Kelly's work in progress

Did you have any problems with adjusting the clutch?

I installed the SD282-2 and have over the 1 1/2" of free play in the linkage. The adjuster link is to short. I am using '64 clutch linkage.

There are various lengths of clutch rods available and you obviously need one of the longer ones. Brewers has some but they are designed to work at and angle and not straight like a 64 A body. You could possibly heat one up and straighten it. There are some stock links that are longer and straight but I don't know exactly where they come from. I presume you have the clutch fork with the clevis type connector and not the rubber biscuit. I have had this trouble before, send me a PM if you want more information.

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If you didn't drive it there, it's not a street car.

Yeah, I have the clevis style. So you think I only need a longer adjusting rod. I hope this is the case and not a spacer on the fulcrum, I hate dropping a transmission in the gravel.

I also have ran into this problem. It was with a Lakewood scatter shield for a SBM. It too required a longer adjusting rod. But it was using a Borg & Beck style of pressure plate and not the Diaphragm style that the Spec is using.

I have never been able to make a diaphragm clutch work, but many on this board have. My problem is that it will never release even with zero free play. Apparently yours releases after a lot of free play. Still might be cured with a longer link but I would suggest that you search for posts concerning diaphragm clutches. Joshie, Greg Ondayko and Rick Covalt all use a diaphragm set up successfully.

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If you didn't drive it there, it's not a street car.

Generally a diaphragm clutch needs less travel than a Borg and Beck type to release. In fact many people have found it necessary to limit pedal travel so that the diaphragm doesn't go over center and hang up. A wood block screwed to the floor under the clutch pedal works, but is a little inelegant. The best way to check for adequate clutch release is to take off the dust shield and see if you have at least .060" plate departure or total clearance between the disc and pressure plate with the clutch pedal on the floor. Chances are if you can drive the car and the clutch starts grabbing around the middle of the travel it's OK.

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Joshua

I ordered a AR078 from Brewer's Performance. This is a 7" long adjusting rod for a SBM to BBM conversion, the longest they had. After a couple of test fittings, I shorten it down to 5 1/2". The pedal is nice and smooth with the required 1" of free play, Amazingly the clutch pedal is even slightly above the brake pedal now, which I guess is where it is supposed to be, at least according to moparts pundits. This is just about the easiest clutch that I have experienced in a mopar. Now I have to give it a road test.

The 5 1/2" is 1 1/2" longer then the stock adjusting rod.

I received my clutch from Specclutch last week but have been busy with some home improvment projects aand havnt posted much.If the clutch works as well as it looks Im really gonna enjoy driving my car again.I plan on removing the trans in a couple of weeks as I plan on having it rebuilt when I install the new clutch .Ill post back with results but it may be a while.

HyperValiant

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1960 Hyper-Pac Valiant(rolling test-bed)
1963 Valiant V2OO(Son's summer project,- he just turned 15 )
1972 Valiant 4dr(Daughter Kelly's repair in progress)
1974 Valiant (v8) daughter Kelly's work in progress

Just called Matt today, and I'm pretty amazed that he said it would ship monday... the part number for the smaller stage 2 clutch is 252-2...
Since I upgraded the duster with a new heavy duty over center spring...I'm going to have to get Arnold to come over and help me remove it for the diaphragm clutch cover...hopefully this will keep the clutch from "withering" after 5-6 runs...or keep it intact after the new rear and wider tires go on....

Just tell him Kesteb sent you and he can find the part you need instantly...



-D.Idiot

DI,
I think that youre really gonna like the the Specclutch unit,especially if you really enjoy rowing gears.The addition of the Spec unit,rebuilt a-833 od,and changing the 18 inch gooseneck shifter handle for a 10 inch straight stick turned my 60 Val from a dumptruck to a sports sedan.
I still havent removed my over center spring yet,still waiting for the weather to give me a break.The hardest part of the whole deal is the 500 mile break in period before you can really bang on it.I only have about 200 miles on mine..
HyperValiant

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1960 Hyper-Pac Valiant(rolling test-bed)
1963 Valiant V2OO(Son's summer project,- he just turned 15 )
1972 Valiant 4dr(Daughter Kelly's repair in progress)
1974 Valiant (v8) daughter Kelly's work in progress

At 30 miles a day I should be done in time for test and tune and really thrash on it....



-D.idiot

One trick for removing over center spring is to pry individual coils apart a little and stick fender washers or sheet metal in to expand and hold coils apart. I am looking forward to trying my Spec clutches too, prolly later in summer...

Lou

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