i am looking to build up my 1975 plymouth duster Slant six. lots of people are saying to go with the super 6 setup, but i want alot of power so im thinking about a turbo kit. question is can i put the turbo kit on the super 6 setup and if so how much gain will i see? and would the 4 barrel be a better setup for the turbo?

i will take a stab at this. There is NO turbo Kit that I am aware of at this time for a slant six. So everything must be custom fabed (read expensive). A super six is fine for the street and great for gas milage. Without head work a 4 bbl is a waste of time. There are a lot of us who run 4bbl slants on the road every day.
Hope this helps,
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

I already have the edelbrock 600 carb and im lookin for the manifold. Is there anything else i need?

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Racing in a honda is like the special olympics...
even if you win your still retarted.

what are the power and gas mileage differences between a 2brl super six set up and a stock one barrel (I have a 80 dodge shortbed) if I went to a 2brl and cam change free flowing 2 1/4 exhaust am I going to loose alot of mpg? and is it worth the added power? I don't mean to hijac but my question kind of along the same lines. theres a 225motor with a turbo setup on ebay right now starting at 1200 buy it now for 1800. it is minus carb(uses a spread bore) this could be what your looking for. what do you think of this? looks like a good set up but pipes could be cleaned uphttp://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120474006384&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT.

there is also this manifold and turbo for 200 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... MEWAX%3AIT

on the other the guy lowered his buy it now to 1500

I think Frank is giving some good advice. A slant six is different than a V8 in that it has various flow limitations. The biggest limitation is in the cylinder head. It's also a good engine to learn on, which is what I did one winter I spent alone in Vermont. I brought my cylinder head with me and a copy of this article:
http://www.scribd.com/doc/9572222/head- ... -abrasives
I had trouble finding the original article but this one links to it. I'm in the Philippines, and everything is complicated here. It says to use a die grinder not a dremel, but I used a dremel since I had tons of time, and didn't want to screw up the job in a hurry. Anyway, now my car runs awesome with a slightly upgraded cam and Holley 350 super six. My next engine improvement will be Dutra dual exhaust. My point is, you'll waste money just buying stuff without a rational plan. Figure out what you want the engine to do, and post it here. The gurus will help. Good luck, and rock on etc...

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/6 '67 Barracuda convertible, electronic ignition, 4-OD, street cam, SBP KH discs, 3.55 SG 7.25" 1" t-bars. Bilstein.
340 '67 fastback, Doug Nash 5-speed.
1988 Toyota pickup work truck

I'd be very worried about that given my experience with welded cast iron manifolds. The sort of cast iron used in manifolds is very tough to weld and often the welds end up cracking.

To answer your other question, I actually gained about 1-2 mpg by going from a 1920 to a BBD.

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"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer
'66 Dart - turbocharged 225
My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair

i don't want to turbo mine. cast is more difficult to weld pre heat high knickel rod and control cool down temps are all key.... so what is the best intake to go with bbd?