I wouldn't bother with the loctite.............

There's still more friction on the shaft than the bearing, so you'll be fine.

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Jamie Passon should have the stuff you need. Passon Performance.

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's

93 D350 Cummins THD Maxfuel 35mpg parts to hit 400hp+ Suncoast Cat2 A518, converter DDP Stage III injectors 62/64 HX35, 3 piece manifold, 4" Diamond Eye, Gear Venders OD. Stage I street/tow PDD head on order.

If I need stuff, which seems to be a toss-up so far, I think I have it. Green Loctite, which is very thin and seeps into very tiny places.

Thanks

RK

Turns out the new bearings are much tighter on the shaft than the old ones.

Thanks

RK

I hereby declare that assembling or reassembling an A833OD according to standard or any other instructions is flatly impossible and has never been done by anyone, any time, anywhere.

Furthermore I declare that the reason Chrysler went under is that its contract with the devil to assemble its transmissions expired.



Issued This Day Under the Warrant and Seal of:

Ross Q. Oswald Higgenbottom Alluitious Josephus Kinder

Go have a few beers and try again, Ross!

-James

_________________

Yeah, it helps to use your forked tail to hold the countershaft gearset in place whaile you slide the countershaft into position and let the broom handle fall out the otherside of the case...

Drilling the 1" hole your bench is also mandatory...

Have a couple of beers look at it again and make sure to tell the mechanism that you are not going to let IT win....

-D.Idiot

Well, I did make a couple advances this evening. Turns out I just happened to have read two bad tips in two separate articles. One was to cut the arbor piece 1/4" shorter than the cluster gear. After I knocked off for an hour or two I got to thinking that made no sense. The other thing was that you should stick the thrust bearings to the inside of the case.

After doing some more searching and reading I made an arbor about 1/8" longer than the cluster gear - maybe 1/4 mm shorter than the inside measurement of the case. Then per the new material I had read I stuck the thrust bearings onto the ends of the cluster gear. The protruding arbor held them in place while I slid the whole thing down through the slots in the bosses, so now it's bottom center.

The rest should be a piece of cake - if you like frosting made with salt instead of sugar. Actually I think the rest will go OK.

I'd like to watch someone do it with the thrust bearings stuck on the inside of the case. After 2 or 3 hours trying that, I still didn't have the cluster gear in the right place. With the longer arbor and the thrust washers on the gear/arbor it took about 2 minutes.

And I think my use of 3/4" conduit for the arbor may have an advantage when putting the counter shaft in. I can shove a big screw driver in there to help hold it in the right place.

RK

PS. I got to looking at the article telling you to stick the thrust bearings inside the case. If you look closely he accompanying pictures show them on the gear. Wish I had noticed that earlier.

I believe the countershaft bushings are just that... bushings not bearings. That seems to be the weak point on the OD 833.

When modified for use with higher HP engines some shops will bore out the case and fit a roller bearing at each end of the shaft... fwiw.

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Check it out... www.symcoshakedown.com

The only bushing on my counter shaft is the spacer bushing that separates the two pairs of rollers and keeps them at the ends of the counter shaft. The shaft is fixed in the case bosses. The cluster gear runs on the two pairs of un-caged rollers that are between it and the shaft. The thrust bearings are washers that center the cluster gear in the case.

I've heard/read rumors that A833's were weak, but I've never heard/read a genuine, consistent failure point.

How did bushings come up? There is a bushing at the end of the tail cone, but it doesn't even touch the output shaft, rather fits over the end of the drive shaft yoke.

RK

This isn't the only Mopar forum. Just the best slant forum. Go to Moparts and do some research.

Jamie Passon posts there occasionally. Several tranny experts.

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's

93 D350 Cummins THD Maxfuel 35mpg parts to hit 400hp+ Suncoast Cat2 A518, converter DDP Stage III injectors 62/64 HX35, 3 piece manifold, 4" Diamond Eye, Gear Venders OD. Stage I street/tow PDD head on order.

I'm sorry. What is the subject of this research?

Thanks

RK

If you need more info there is many more people there that have "been there done that."

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's

93 D350 Cummins THD Maxfuel 35mpg parts to hit 400hp+ Suncoast Cat2 A518, converter DDP Stage III injectors 62/64 HX35, 3 piece manifold, 4" Diamond Eye, Gear Venders OD. Stage I street/tow PDD head on order.

I had the same noises coming from my A833 out of my 85 D-150, the only time it was quiet was in 3rd (direct drive). First, second and OD howled something fierce. I also thought it was going to be the countershaft bearings. However, it turns out it was the input shaft bearing, with a broken cage.

My original trans has a date stamp of 8-20-85. A second trans I picked up from a j/y was dated 8-12-85. Both trannys had the same problem, bad input shaft bearing.

Searching the web for a part number was fruitless. And the bearing numbers I did find were incorrect.

A couple of years ago I had my trans out replacing the clutch and p/p. Thats when I noticed the looseness in the input shaft ( the cage was not broken at that time, and also there was no noise present). I chased down a part number then and thankfully wrote it down. At that time, I found out that both the front (input) and rear (output) bearings where the same number.

Today, after three weeks and gobs of $$ spent on mail ordering incorrect bearings, I popped off the rear bearing of the j/y trans on a whim. It measured the same as my broken input shaft bearing, 35 mm ID, 90 mm OD, 21 mm thick. But the greatest thing was that this bearing had a number on it: MRC 308SG8

Side Notes: It took me less that an hour to put in the countershaft, rear shaft assembly and input shaft. I used two hose clamps to keep the front (3rd-OD) sleeve in place while inserting the rearshaft/tail housing assembly. I had stopped at the auto parts store and asked for the 'stickiest, snoty-ist' grease they had to keep the 76 uncaged countershaft roller bearings in place during assembly. The 'broom stick' I used was cut to fit, it was actually a bit tight but could be be gently forced to where I needed it.

But the biggest kicker of the assembly is I did it on the tail gate of my truck. No bench, no holes drilled anwhere, all lying flat (some turning required) but it can be done.

I'll be installing this tranny this weekend and hopefully all will be well until I can get new bearings and gaskets for my second A833 sitting in pieces on the floor.

Troy