Anybody have any tips on removing the heat flapper in a slant exhaust manifold? How do I get it out? How do I plug the holes?

Thanks.

Somebody was just talking about this not to long ago,Use like a dremel and cut the flap off leaving the shaft in place,or remove everything and use a couple bolts/nuts/washers to plug the holes.Something to that effect anyway.Good luck

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83 B-150 slant 6,4 speed. 79 B-300 360 pathfinder 4x4. 74 W-300 318 4x4 git-r-done 80 B-100 sl6,4speed

Doesn't the exhaust flow better with the flapper in place and stuck in the closed position...........

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

I jammed my flapper open to help direct the exhaust down toward the outlet. Still plenty of heat for the Offy intake.

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Joshua

Just for clarification

I think you're talking open exhaust
and
I was talking closed manifold heater.

So we're talking about the same position of the flapper.

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Y'all knew this was coming:

Reed, what are you trying to fix/improve/change by removing the manifold heat control valve?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Personally, I am an advocate of keeping the flapper in place, especially on a street driven vehicle (and even more especially in cold climates). HOWEVER, this particular exhaust manifold: (a) will be going in a van, and vans are notorious for having poor cooling in the engine compartment; and (b) has a flapper valve that sticks. This is an older non-round counterweight manifold and the springs are messed up on it. Further, when I bought the manifold many years ago, the flapper was stuck "shut" in the heat-the-carb position. Some time with a penetrating lubricant, a hammer, and a pair of vice grips freed up the flapper, but the shaft has lots of fore-and-aft play and the flapper actually gets stuck and won't turn when the shaft goes all the way fore or aft. This leaves m with the real probability that the flapper will get stuck in the "shut" position and lead to carb problems.

Now, if anyone has any suggestions on how to rebuild the flapper assembly and a source for new springs for the front and back of the assembly and a new metal stopper to keep the valve from rotating too far, then I am all ears. I would prefer to keep this functional, but I don't want it getting stuck in the wrong position.

I would have to call it a poor idea to go to the hassle of installing an exhaust manifold known to be defective. Install a good working one instead!

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Yeah, but...

OK...work some more on freeing it up (use the Mopar solvent P/N 4318039AC - I don't know what's in it, but it's magic; liquid wrench type preparations do not substitute), and definitely replace the missing stop clip on the non-counterweight end of the shaft. There's a pretty good chance it'll work satisfactorily after that. If not, hunt up a new old stock manifold heat control valve rebuild kit 2084797, 2525442, or 3004664 and rebuild the valve.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I took the flapper OUT of the manifold.
Screwed in some plugs on the two holes.
In Phx AZ no need for anymore heat-

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68 dart -4 doors with house paint, dents, satellite radio, and no rust
67 coronet -4 doors, quarter million miles, currently retired and growing older in the yard
73 charger -2 doors big block car, prowls phx in winter, sits inside during summer

…except that (1) with the flapper removed and the holes plugged, you've got full-time exhaust heat applied to your intake manifold, and (2) "No need for this heat because I live in AZ" isn't correct.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

No comment...(though I still have my no flapper valve manifold at my folks place...)

that flapper bothers me every time i look at it. mine has a slight leak that pisses me off. i am positive its leaking at the shaft. it was stuck when i bought the car. i freed it up bit the is usually just enough resistance for it not to operate properly. i am always spraying some kind of penetrant on it. its fine till it gets good and hot. i am really skeptical that it is needed. especially when the manifolds are bolted together and the intake is in direct contact with hot exhaust. maybe not blowing directly on it, but it still has to get hot. it doesnt make a whole lot of sense to me to go through the effort of making a the flapper work and then go ahead and make an aluminum heat shield to block heat from getting to the carb, but hey i am a v8 hot rodder and drag racer. on this car i decided to stick with the slant for a while. id have to see some actual proof that you need the flap to convince me.

oh yeah i have the round conterwieght flap, and when it is moving free, you hit the gas and it opens, like it should. but if you hold the throttle at a steady rpm, say cruise speed, the flap slowly closes heating the manifold.