If you're not into spending a whackload of money, then skip the mini starter; it's an unneeded expense. Regular starters work fine and usually cost less. However, if you're junkyard shopping, first check what kind of price you can get on a starter for an '89 Dodge Diplomat with 318 engine, or for a '92 Dodge Dakota with a 5.2. Asking for one of those will get the wrecking yard looking through the right interchanges; any starter from a 3.9 V6, 5.2/318 or 5.9/360 V8 between 1989 and 2000 will work correctly.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

thanks slantsixdan. i will check into those starters. there is a gigantic junk yard about 15 minutes from my house so surely they would have something. as far as the fusible link goes, could i just put in a normal wire with an in line fuse instead. i just don't know that much about those fusible links. don't they have to be a certain diameter and cut to a certain length to work right?

You can bur fusible link wire at the autoparts store in various gages already cut to length.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

See this thread for information about circuit protection (fuses vs. fuselinks)

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

i had an 86 dodge omni glh back in the day and remember it having about 20 fusible links. as soon as i started reading and saw the maxi fuses i remembered dealing with them back then. i guess it would be easier just to replace the fusible link if the parts store already has the correct gauge and cut to length. aren't the fusible links supposed to get stretchy when they have gone out? this one is still tight. it was more at the connector where the smoke was coming from but i am still going to try and replace the whole thing. also, i may try the starter relay before the whole starter since that is where the f/l goes anyway maybe there is a problem with it and it is cheaper than a whole starter.

Back to your stalling problem,when my wife first got her 63 Val it experienced the same thing and it turned out that the air bleed in the 1920 Holley was stopped up with trash and it wouldnt idle at all in gear.I rebuilt the remanned carb that was on the car and it made a world of difference but still picked up a new carb from Dan.

HyperValiant

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1960 Hyper-Pac Valiant(rolling test-bed)
1963 Valiant V2OO(Son's summer project,- he just turned 15 )
1972 Valiant 4dr(Daughter Kelly's repair in progress)
1974 Valiant (v8) daughter Kelly's work in progress

If you have been making several attempts to start this will cause that solenoid to heat up, if it was not damaged prior to your no start/stall then it probably is now.

I would highly recommend that you replace that fuse-able link with the proper size and remove the starter and inspect it for damage.

As for replacement of the starter, I find its usually cheaper and less wasteful to rebuild them. Depending on the starter I usually bench build them. I would try and find a local rebuilder, will save you money and provide you with a much better repair then a salvage yard find or a poorly reman unit from a parts house.

As for your stall, I would suggest checking for intake leaks and the choke on the carb.

Cheers!