Is there an "easy" way to replace a strut rod? Does the lower control arm have to be completely removed?
Mine broke this weekend and there's a lesson to be learned here. Eight years ago I rebuilt the front end on my Barracuda. At the time I modified the strut rods as suggested by an article in the "Slant Six News". The article suggested extending the threads on the forward end of the strut rod an additional 3 1/4" to allow for greater caster adjustment. The modification did do that, but I'm convinced that the threads also caused a stress point that led to the rod breaking this weekend. It broke just about where the new threads ended. If you've made this modification beware. If you've ever considered it, my advice is don't!
Of course in no way do I blame the author of the article. He was trying to be innovative and I admire that. This is how we learn.
Please let me know if anyone knows an "easy" way to replace the rod. Thanks.
Bob D

Having stripped out many front disc brake suspensions in the last couple of months. The late strut rods have a wide spot in them on both ends to keep them from being pulled forward though the K-member , or backwards through the control arm. Removal of the lower control arm is necessary to replace the strut....Loosening the nuts off the k-member end first is best....(makes things easier too...)

-D.Idiot

You need to unload the Torsion Bar and remove the lower shock mounting.
Take off the LCA "pin" nut and remove the clip at the rear of the T.Bar then push the whole assembly rearward enough to slip-in a replacement strut rod. It is not that hard of a job.
Oh, if you have a front sway bay, you will have to remove that link also.
DD

Doug,
Thanks for the advice. Unfortunately it wouldn't work in my situation because I have polyurethane strut bushings which have no "give"and are thicker than the rubber ones. I'm sure that your suggestion would have worked with rubber bushings.
A couple of things that I noticed when replacing the rod were that both my upper and lower ball joint grease seals are split open. These were from Just Suspension and are only eight years old with about 40K miles on them. I'm not impressed!
Another thing that I noticed was that I can not get the roll pin into the end of the stock strut rod because the poly bushings are so thick. This hadn't been an issue with my modified rod because it extended further forward. I guess I'll have to use a "jam" nut. Another Just Suspension item. I'm not impressed again!!
Bob D

I am not aware of the article espousing extending the thread length. But, speaking as a machinist, you have to put in a 'relief' for the end of the thread. You also make it a radiused fillet. This reduces the possibility for stress concentrations, and also allows room(safe area) for the thread cutting tool to be stopped and backed away from the workpiece.

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'66 Cuda 225/4spd
'66 Dart GT convertible 225/auto
'64 Dart GT 340/4spd