So I have been driving and enjoying my /6 now for sometime and well today I could hear a bit of hissing and surge, I poppped the hood and sure enough there is a intake leak around the manifold.

So I am going to replace the gasket but most of, well all of the bolts look like they will break. I have several methods of getting rusted fasteners off but there is the occasional "oh sh*t" bolt that breaks.


So my question is, if I must drill and tap holes on that head what type of precautions should I take. I am a experienced technician and I have had a bit of mixed luck drilling into heads, most Chrysler seem to be fine. I hit a pin hole into a coolant jacket years ago in a few GM heads that turned out to be nightmares. Honda/Acura/Nissan/Toyota heads have plenty of meat to drill in so I've never had a problem.

Any tips would be nice.
Thanks
Dave

Before you take a wrench to anything soak every nut and bolt in penetrating oil for a few days... don't be cheap... use lots of it.

Then GENTLY loosing every suspect bolt then retighten it then loosen it a bit more... then retighten untill they all come off. that deal works pretty good.

Did I mention soaking each bolt for several days?

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To be even more clear; you should soak the with a penetrating oil several times a day for several days.

Scott M

after you soak for several days...tighen slightly befor loosening

keep on roddin'

A sharp rap with a hammer on the end of the fastener helps also. The end exhaust studs do go into the water jacket. MORE PB Blaster or Kroil.
Frank

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73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

Wire brush the rust off the exposed threads. Use a torch to heat the nuts, and turn them while hot. Have all your tools within reach and be prepared to work fast! If you delay long enough that the stud becomes hot, let it cool completely, then reheat the nut. Never try to turn the nut while the stud is hot unless you want to break it off.

To remove a stud or screw from a casting, heat the stud or screw immediately adjacent to the casting until it is red hot. Then let it cool to room temperature. This process expands the threads, which are constrained by the cooler casting, distorting them. After it cools the male thread will be slightly smaller and generally spins out easily. If you want to use penetrating oil, do it during the cooling stage; the oil will become heated and less viscous, and will be easily drawn into the thread. If the stud still won't turn, try heating the casting surrounding the stud, but not the stud itself.

Heating the body of a brake caliper or wheel cylinder immediatly surrounding the bleeder will allow the most rusted bleeder to easily unscrew. After its heated use a 6-point box end wrench to apply torque while simoltaneously tapping the wrench with a small hammer to provide impact. Don't even think about using a 12-point tool- it *will* round off the flats. By using this method I haven't broken a bleeder in ~20 years.

Acetylene torches work better than propane.

Ken

This will work with screws (especially when heated), but be very careful with studs. Striking the end of a stud will distort at least the first thread. Use this method only when removing a stud that will be replaced.

Ken