I purchased a used Holley carb on eBay for my brother's Duster. I have never had good luck with Holleys, but I figured I would gird up my loins and take another stab at figuring out how these things work.

The carb has a list number of 7508-1. My research indicates that this is a 350 CFM Holley model 2300 carb. I believe it is one of the "Economaster" series of carbs because it has the "wagon wheel" venturis.

My questions:

(1) can anyone confirm that this is a 350 CFM economaster 2300?

(2) can anyone give me ballpark estimates as to what jets, nozzles, metering blocks, squirters, etc... I should be running in this carb for a mildly built slant? I know I will need to fine-tune everything later, but I need to get a rough idea of what will get me at least running decent, if not close to perfect.


Thanks in advance.

Yup, those are indeed the venturis of the economizer! We are having a discussion about the Holley 2300 carb here: http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=37563

I have one on my signature truck and it pulls like a freight train above 2500 rpm. I can't seem to get it to idle when cold and has a crazy stumble up to the 2500 point. But it is a great carb, and I anticipate great things from it when I do get it sorted. Some Jeep guys don't like it because it seems to flood on bumpy or hilly terrain, but some have gotten it to work well with float springs.

Anyhow, welcome to the fray. I'm looking forward to reading your insights into this carb!

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If it was easy, everybody would be doing it.

THanks! I will probably leech ore than contribute at this point, but I will read the thread nonetheless.

One thing you will want to know about the economizer is the mixture screws on the metering block tune the opposite way than the "regular" 2300.

_________________
If it was easy, everybody would be doing it.

The mix screws on this smog carb are indeed "reverse" and they don't work anything like their "normal" brother...the idle screws actually change the amount of air added to the 'fixed' idle circuit fuel flow...not the other way around on a normal carb/metering block...(so you can go from calibrated 'normal' to lean at idle and never richer without some drilling and mods...)

A while back someone on here wrote a procedure to plug certain holes in the carb body so you could use a standard idle circuit metering block on this carb and tune it like the rest of the family...

I'd like to find a couple of these some time, one to mod for 2 barrel use, and one to pull the venturies out of and install in a 390/450 primary side...


Good luck.

-D.Idiot

Hmmmmm, maybe this wasn't such a good score. I will keep researching.