McLeod has none of the 9.25" or 9.5" clutch stuff any more. After a recent search and many inquiries it appears the 9.5" clutch from Spec Clutch is the best direct fit option.

_________________
Joshua

timing will be based on the fuel you are running and compression,pump gas with octane boost and 10.7/1 compression i could run a max of 32deg total. with a 50/50 mix of av gas and supreme with 11.4/1 compression i could run a max of 25degs total timing

I was thinking about your project again. If you have to or want use an SFI approved pressure plate the McLeod won't work. I don't know if the 9.5 Spec clutch is SFI or not. Greg Ondayko who often posts here had McLeod make up a clutch and flywheel combination that lets you use a 10" Ford clutch on a stock size flywheel. I don't know if that one is SFI either but Greg has been very satisfied with it. There are numerous small diameter clutches for imports that are SFI and transmit huge amounts of power but would require a special bolt pattern on the flywheel. If you really want to beat the GMC guy what you really need is a smaller racing clutch that incorporates both adjustable spring pressure and adjustable counterweights to increase pressure with RPM. That would allow you to slip the clutch off the line to keep from lighting up those skinny tires. Probably not what the rule makers had in mind for this econo class though.

It looks like you are fabricating a plenum type manifold which should work good with any of several types of carbs. You want something tunable, easy to work on, and easy to syncronize. Holley two barrels would be a good choice but you don't mention them as a possiblity. Although I am not familiar with them, Rochester 2GCs used to be popular in perfomance applications and would probably be a ggod choice. Getting enough venturi area should not be a problem.

Knowing that that hot Jimmy can't get into the 11s at 120MPH indicates how hard it will be to apply power under your rules. You need to study how those "Stock Appearing" Roadrunners and Corvettes get into the 10s on polyglass tires!

_________________
If you didn't drive it there, it's not a street car.

My 10.7 motor so far likes 28 total,at Vegas,,,I am at about 20 initial,I have a 10 gal fuel cell,I add 1 gal of 114 race gas for street use,about double that at the track,Pings under HARD acceleration if I dont,I do cheat and just run pump gas for back and forth to work drives,its fine untill I get really into it,then it pings a little,,,Whenever i have just pump gas in it a 5.0 mustang plays with me,I still spank them,just not as bad with good gas,mark

I like the idea of multi carbs, but it seems to me that the 4 barrel is the true old school for a slant for performance. wasn't the hyper pac 4 barrel the first performance manifold for slants? And 4 barrels have been around since the early 50's, thank you Will Carter. But, how about six strombergs?

_________________

Grandpa's 1974 Dart Custom 4 door 225 auto, Aluminum Radiator, 1920 Holley.

So essentially it's more about "hooking up" than making a ton of horsepower? I would think the 225 would be great for this if you gear it pretty high and take the power glide route. Just an idea, are you forced to run leaf springs, or is four link a possibility?
I would suggest several carbs as well, just better fuel distribution. Have you considered alcohol? Once again I'm at sea for what the rules are, but carb and compression are going to be your friends. I don't think your build warrants full on k1 rods set-up. In fact I would consider a simple long rod, or cast crank set-up. Good luck!

I've run the dragster a couple times and now it is time to make the plan for more horsepower. Since the short block is in very good shape, my plan is to concentrate on the head. I'll have the block milled around .100" to increase compression with the stock standard bore rotating assembly. And a mild cam is in order. This step is necessary because I can't build a Wiseco/K1 short block and get a good head at the same time. So, I'll do/get the head this year and put it on the stock short block and next year the Wiseco/K1 stuffed block will become a reality.
I called engnbldr today to order oversize valve. They have sold out! They MIGHT get more in a month or so. So, experts, what is a reasonable alternative for valves? Will the standard bore be a problem with big valves? or can I notch the block enough? What is the price range for a Jeffrey modified head? That might make more sense that me porting one.
Cam suggestions for this combination would be appreciated too.

Sounds like a good plan. SB Ford or SB Chev valves work well for the Slants, possibly turning down intake on Ford (1.78 stock).

Mike can set you up quite affordably compared to your local shops and the hours of time you would spend on porting. I will PM you a rough price guess - don't like to post for Mike's sake. Best is to call him and chat.

Cyl head is THE best place to spend time and money.

Happy building,

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Ferrea makes oversize valves for the slant.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FERREA-5 ... .m20.l1116

_________________
Franklin
'61 Valiant

I run the K1 and Weisco set up, my car weighs 2690 w/ me and race fuel in it.It had the enginbuiler valves in it.We machined the block so the pistons were 5000th down the cyl bore.And the total compression is 12:1.It has roller rockers, cam is a MP w/ a total of 590 lift after the 1.6 rockers.Ran a Hughes double roller timing chain,crank scraper,DD prepped oil pump,Hope ported head,Car has 410 gears,25 inch tall slicks that are 9 inches wide.Manual reverse valve bodied 904, and to date has run the best of 12.98 @ 101 MPH. Thats my combo......and just so you know, I lunched the engine, and Brian @ Weisco and Tom @ K1 are great to deal w/.No failures on any of their parts.......just letting you know that cosromer service is top notch.
Andrew/Kidd

_________________
Wife's: 64 Valiant
My: 70 Road Runner, 67 Barracuda, AND the 62 Valiant drag car!!

When I built the dragster, I picked up 3 slant sixes. One went into the dragster as is. The other 2 I dismantled. One had 2 spun rod bearings, # 3 &4. I took the pan off the other engine and in the sump was a relatively intact rod bearing shell. I was stumped. Not wanting to spend much time investigating I assumed someone had done a partial disassembly and left it in there. Even though there were no signs that the engine had been disassembled, i.e. road sludge disturbed, etc.
This week I decided to take a crank in for turning, etc. When I miked the #6 rod journal, the one missing the bearing shell, it measured .060" undersize! Now, I'm wondering if the shell actually slipped out of a running engine??? The previous owner said it had a heck of a knock so he had it removed from his Dart and a replacement used engine installed.
What do you experts think? Looks like a physical impossibility to me. But, .060" wear, holy cow!!!

i can`t see a bearing passing out without damage to the bearing itself, someone must have done a bearing swap with the engine and the pan not fully removed, not see half the bearing shell drop in the pan. thats my best guess, i wouldn`t want to replace bearing like that but some might try.

That makes sense. Just like a surgeon leaving an instrument in a patient.

Any new pics? Made a decision on carb(S) yet? Love this project.

_________________
72 dart acquired 12/08 /6,holley2b, mopar perf intake, mopar perf header, cam, built motor,904 finally re-installed, 8.75....still needs sorting out.
99 dakota 318 5 speed reg cab picked up 9/09; Trans finally fixed! woohoo!

hi bobw
i think your car is awesome.. the first thing you need to do is Nail down your traction.. the slant-6 is all about Torque Torque Torque .. forget about RPM , RPM is your weak point, so the easy way to get down the track is to build your engine to produce Massive amounts of low end Torque to launch your skinny little chassis .. i think the wide gear span 2nd and 3rd is your best bet to launch your car down the strip... if your motor bogs in 3rd then you need to build in more Torque! . pull up to the tree in 2nd gear and BOOM...BOOM using only 2nd and 3rd, you are Gone!!! .. you need to build one hell of a strong clutch to handle the LOW RPM TORQUE but none of this will work if you can`t NAIL your Tires Down to the Track! .. . as far a carburetors go you should investigate and google *FISH CARBURETORS* for awesome low end air fuel mix.. do your home work on FISH! http://www.legendsofnascar.com/Red_Vogt.htm .. two fish carbs spraying custom fuel mix dino tuned for MaX torque is all you should need..
JMHO... Good Luck