What Kinds / Brands of Engine Assembly do you guys Recommend for initial assembly and startup of the engine.

I am assembling my race engine all on my own. - I always had the Machine shop assemble the Crank rods and Pistons in the block for me with the dart, so this is my 1st ground up build.


Any thing special for a 1st time cam run in as well with all other new parts?


Thanks for the help!

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

I use Federal Mogul stuff on the bearings, (and cam/lifters if used)
Cam stuff on new cams

I use 10/30 on everything else. I use a little squirt can to oil everything liberally. I dunk the piston tops so the ring packs are submerged..I usually dunk the timing chain as well.
By the time the pans goes on nothing is dry. I usually use a litre during assembly. Valve springs need lots.

Clean Clean Clean. Lots of clean cotton rags.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

I use the moly assembly lube in a tube and make sure to cover the entire face before assembly.

One of our mom and pop shops here sold me a bottle of donkey snot, and I used it in my 10.3:1 motor...it's like 50 wt but has moly in it and it sticks pretty well to things that I'd use motor oil on. Pistons are a 10-30 wt dip though. The cam will usually come with it's own paste I coat the lobes and the bottom of the lifters, you can also buy it separate (I bought a Crane Cams pack of "cam goo" and that stuff went on really nice and did great with the Erson cam.

Beware...once you do one on your own, it get's kind of addicting, because you get all the fun of assembly and checking to make sure it's all in good shape (it's like that big Lego set except you have to mic the parts...)


Good luck!



-D.Idiot

I have mostly used Moly lube on cam/lifter/gears/rockers, and 30 wt oil on everything else. Never a problem. I have also used the sticky red lube from Crane or Permatex on bearings and it worked fine too.
The third thing I have used and like was just GM EOS for everything except cam lifters and rockers, they get moly lube, and the pistons/rings which get 30 Wt oil.

If the engine is going to sit awhile, it seems something a little heavier than 30 wt makes sense since it should stay put longer.

I would avoid the traditional pump oil cans, you can feel metal scraping inside when you use them. Too easy to contaminate the oil. I use a clear plastic squeeze bottle.

the only re-build I did was a chevy 283-- used stp oil treatment for assembly lube--- worked great-- .
also did a crank swap in a sb chevy used an assembly lube-- very sticky gel type lube--- motor is still runing 20 years later, Lawrence