Bob
I can answer a few of your questions. The 904 with V8 internals is a good choice up to 500 or so HP.
The Wiseco/K1 combo SHOULD be from .012 to .035 in the hole. This will depend on your individual block.
Hope this helps,
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

I finished working on the two clutch packs today. I went from a 3 clutch to a 4 clutch pack for hi drum and a 4 for rear drum which it already had. I spent a lot of time getting the clearance for both clutch packs right. I like them to the high side of spec but realisitcally you must be able to turn the fibers with your hand when it is assembled. If not wear will take place. I machine the reaction plates if necessary and it was so in both of these.
I also made and installed a resrtictor in the hi clutch passage in the case to slightly slow down hi drum apply so second can release first. It makes a big different both in Et and trans life. Tomorrow I will dig into the Govenor and plan an attack to raise shift points. My MW car with the shop made govenor plug, shifts from second to third at 105 MPH at full throttle. That would be for this car also perfect but this is a 904 style and that is a old 727 with push buttons and a rear pump.
If anyone would like I will take a pic of the restrictor and post it somewhere. I am very interested in your Sonnex stuff. I didnt know it exists.
Don
Don

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Don

Made a few changes to the dragster. I put a 904 automatic in it cuz I'm a terrible shifter. It no longer is a legal Hamb Dragster. I'm now in a class by myself. HA/GRa. Also, laid the radiator flat and built a nose piece. It looks more like a dragster now. My favorite sign painter, Kathy Weeks, added some "silver bullets" to the nose and added the .45 (caliber) car number in three places. Now I need to build a good engine and get a high stall converter for next season.

As long as you're having fun! You can always switch back when your comfortable w/ the car and if you want to do comp again....

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

My k1, wisecos installed in a un cut 1970 block are .010 ABOVE the deck at the front and .005 at the rear .This was a standard bore virgin 90.000 mile motor never apart.Guzzi Mark

After a day of putting all the rods and pistons in my block and swapping them all around,and measureing everyone several times in the middle center of piston I came up with,The pistons and rods are spot on,my crank grind or block isnt.When I measured stock standard pistons they were all .165 down in the holes.Had block skimmed,only took .003 to clean up.Now I have .013 .013 .014 .012.012.006 ABOVE deck.I will straighten up the block or crank and then have pistons cut to 0 deck.Just want to bring this to all your attention so you dont try this combo on a block that has been cut or isnt at least .175 in the hole before you start.The rods and pistons measured perfect no matter where or what combo I used.I think this should also bee in the raceing section but I dont how to do that with out re typing and my finger is sore.someone please put it there also.Doug thinks block,I think crank,will report tues,Thanks Guzzi Mark

What's wrong with 0.014" out of the hole? Sounds like a runner to me. The motor I'm putting in Project V has just that.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

My k1/0.045 wiseco's were .0120 Above deck in the #1 hole, and 0.0125 above in #6. By my math worked out to 10.6:1 with felpro head gasket and 54cc chamber. un touched block, polished crank STD/STD.

OK you blokes, what is the latest on thsi machine I have been waiting !

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John Daley
Nostalgia Dragster

So Cool, I like it !!

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http://www.hotrodnisse.n.nu/

[img]http://gaz_v8.users.photofile.ru/photo/gaz_v8/96085690/xlarge/122172586.jpg[/img]

It's been a summer of misfortunes. The head guy didn't do anything for months. My buddy doing the block got very sick and is months behind. I put the stock engine in and got the automatic trans in and working. Have made a few driveway runs. Now finishing a trailer for the car.
I have run my non-slant 6 Crosley a couple times. Now dealing with some medical issues but should get the dragster out in September.

Here's the trailer I build for the digger. It is based off a flatbead from a 1940 CHevy truck.

wishing you the best. Since it isn't HAMB now just put SRD2 on it. I have SRD1.
I ran my Sr dragster for a couple of years now with a 79 Lock up 904 and a econ MP converter lock up of 175K as momma mopar likes to rate them. most they offered. The converter was issue. I mean it worked fine for just having fun and the dragster is a riot to build ,own and drive as you well know from your own experience. This year i took the plunge. I pulled the trans back not. Installed a non lock up input shaft. Reworked the pumped to non lock up style. I put a shift kit in the trans too to raise the shift points. I ordered a 8 inch converter from Dynamic (Frank Lupo) I am launching now easily at 4500 RPM and the whole deal has changed. It has gone from a easy weekend ride for fun to fealing like a real race car . I had almost forgotten the thrill that comes from carrying the front wheels on launch. It has revived me. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-RrGDPXO ... re=related I have removed the eddy carb now and installed a 600 DP holley which i have reworked to my specs. I am anxiously awaiting next weekend to try it out. It seems great here at the house but, well you know.
My health is also not great but I figure this is my last kick at the can. I want to see if I can get a low 11 or a hi ten even. It will take some sorting out but I think it is possible. I leave the trans in D and let it shift itself. It shift early but is much better since I put in the shift kit. In the winter I am ordering a govenor kit from A&A for a 6200 RPM shift.
My engine is not as exotic as your new one but I am still confident it as the suds I need. Hope you get out at least once more this year with the / All the best
Don

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Don