I was driving the Dart (318 sorry its not a slant question) around yesterday and everything went fine, shut off and started up without any problems for the 5 times I started it and parked it. Then after I brought it home and parked it in the driveway, 5 hours later it wont start. It will turn over and cranks the engine fine, so its definately not the starter or battery. It cranks and acts like if its about to start, but never does. I always give it my usual 1-3 pumps on the gas pedal too. Its getting gas. Any ideas? Im thinking it might be the points since thats the only thing that wasnt changed during the tune-up I gave it recently. but im open for any other ideas since this car is really being a pain lately.

Thanks

Replace the ballast resister and see what happens. Points could also be closed up.

I agree sounds like a ballast,you do carry a spare in the glovebox right?

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83 B-150 slant 6,4 speed. 79 B-300 360 pathfinder 4x4. 74 W-300 318 4x4 git-r-done 80 B-100 sl6,4speed

I wish I had a spare laying around haha but i will be picking one up this afternoon since there only $4. we'll see how it goes.

I replaced both the Ballast resistor and gaped the new points to the proper setting and still no go. its doing the exact same thing. Took off and tested the coil and that came out fine, then tested the Voltage regulator and that came out bad replaced that and still wont start. Its getting spark in the distributor (at the points) but not to the plugs. fixed up some rough wiring and wouldnt start still.

What year is the Dart? Is it a 74?

Incidentally, having to pump the gas 3 times is having to pump it two time too many. A properly set up carb requires 1 pump when cold, mostly to set the choke, and then 1/2 -1 pump when warm.

Its a '72. I know my car. 2-3 times would be sitting for a week. 1 pump, after a day. if its been started less than 24 hours ago it doesnt need any pumping. This has been the way ive started for the entire 8 months ive had it. this is not my problem. There is No spark to the spark plugs or Coil. Zero. Nada. ive tried starting fluid as well and have been cranking it for a while without touching the gas. I have no idea whats wrong with it.

No need to get snippy. I was mentioning the carb as something independent of your no-start problem.

I asked if the car was a 74 due to the one-year only seatbelt interlock system that often causes starting problems on 74 model year cars.

Did you also replace the condenser when you adjusted the points? When was the last time you replaced/checked you spark plug wires? Any chance the distributor slipped and the timing is now off?

Double checked that the rotor is pushed onto the distributor correctly?

Yes, the condensor has been replaced as well as new wires. Its had a complete tune-up as well. the rotor is pushed into the correct position. and yeah that could be it, distributor slipping, ill see what I can do. sorry for me getting upset, but you can understand working on a car sometimes gets frustrating, thanks for your help.

Sure, no problem. Good luck.

the starter seized. But the starter is under a lifetime warranty from the shop that installed it. so friday when it gets taken in ill just have them deal with the non starting problem.

Real bad news....took it to the shop today and there almost 100% sure that its something with the timing chain. and if they replace it, it will make a strong point and the rest of the engine will eventually fall apart.....he can get it started, but wont stay running. theres real low compression. ill find out for sure tomorrow morning..so im screwed pretty much, i have no car at the moment..

A new timing chan will not make the rest of the motor fail.

Its easy to check for timing chain slack. Grab the damper on the front of the motor and turn it back and forth and feel how much slack is in the chain. If the damper moves over an inch it needs to be replaced.

It takes 2 shop hours to replace a chain. Chain and gears are inexpensive and will make a huge difference in driveability.


How is the distributer gear?

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Then what about the low compression in the engine? and the car is at the shop still so I cant check what your telling me to do right now.

True.
Or if you haven't developed a feel for slack, remove the distributor cap and watch the rotor as you turn the damper back and forth. There should be no lag in movement between the damper and the rotor.
Nonexistent, in a 318.

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