oops....I missed the 318 part.

The slack timing chain wll cause low compression. If it jumps a tooth you will make maximum torque at an idle. ,,,,,minds me of a story.....

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Story Time with Uncle Sandy?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

the cylinders are only pushing 20-30psi, all the rest of my compression is being lost through the oil pan. so the rings are bad as well.

I thought it's even normal for a timing chain to get loose - when it's worn out. Is that true?

Also, can a badly worn chain really cause no spark at all? Maybe jumping a tooth or two? I've had one cause the timing to be all over the map, but not a 'no spark' situation.

Duster, it sounds like your 318 has a lot of miles on it. Are they pretty sure all the compression is being lost through the oil pan? Could be a little through the pan and a lot through the valves. If the timing chain is so worn out that you don't have any spark, it's a safe bet that the valves aren't closed all the way on the compression stroke.
If they changed the timing chain & gears and it still has the low compression, that's a different situation.

A worn timing chain will only cause a no spark situation if the chain breaks. Otherwise, the chain will still turn the reluctor in the distributor, but it might just be way off from when it is supposed to be turning it.

Thanks, Reed.
Now that you mention it, are these old engines 'interference' engines? i.e. when the timing chain breaks, the valves hit the pistons? I know that's a huge problem with today's timing belts.

See, you thought you could just be a nice guy and answer a question. Here I am with another one...

:shrug: Someone more knowledgeable than I will be able to answer this one.

The engine was totally torn apart and was sent out for a rebuild if its numbers matching, if its not numbers matching then a new block will be put in, I was going to do it anyway because im going to mod it and want it strong for when I do. it will have a 3yr 100,000 mile warranty either way if its a rebuild or the new block. valves were burnt white and black and yes high miles on that engine, glazed pretty bad on the cylinder walls.

New brakes, drums, wheel cylinders and rough spots on the brake line replaced:

getting the 2 front wheel dust covers tomorrow from a junk yard since all part stores around here dont sell the right ones new (not deep enough). the old ones didnt fit back on tight and secure and were dented and beat up pretty badly.


a few parts I painted up:




The engine should be back from the rebuild shop come monday, as well as the radiator being hot tanked and repainted. Im hoping ill have the car back sometime between the 6-8 of january. ill have pics of the car when its finished