Ok, gotcha.

I rebuilt the engine about a year ago.
The company is Engine power house There number is (661)861-0167.
I called them tonight and priced a rebuild kit for a 1976 225 slant. Includes gasket kit, rings Hastings cast iron, oil pump, King brand aluminum bearings, freeze plugs, timing gear and chain, pistons, lifters, and stock reground cam, but no water pump. It was $299 plus about $45 shipping. I did not purchase the cam from them, so that was discounted, so my kit was a bit cheaper. They can up grade parts if you want a specific manufacture or a rv cam or something. The bearings are not your traditional babbit bearings but a single layer aluminum over steel. They claim to have superior embedding properties and I believe the foreign cars like honda and toyota are using them in their engines. I put them in a 351 W ford and they worked fine.

My engine is 198, no reason just came with the car. They are the same as a 225 just a different crank and rods. I cc the head to get the same volume in each chamber and shaved the head to increase compression a little. Mine was really low from the factory. I seem to remember it being at 6.8 to 1???? Hope this helps

joe

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1964 barracuda 198 slant

Ok, thanks for doing that OklahomaJoe. I appreciate your help. So are you using those bearings in your slant? I looked up there site which redirected me to enginekits.com. Their price is 350 for a complete kit like what you mentioned but with a cam. That's not a bad price but do you think the part quality is as good as the more expensive rebuild kits from other places like RPM machine or Northernautoparts.com has a kit for $426 that has name brand parts like Federal Mogul, Melling, and Felpro gaskets for an additional 25 bucks. I just don't want to spend all this time and money and have to do it all again in a year because of bad quality. Then again, I am limited on funds so can't necessarily use the best of the best. Thanks again for the help.

Well I just cruised the web for a while and found a company called Enginetech that seems to have a pretty complete kit for a low price. I don't know what brand parts they use but they have a pretty nice looking web site and are located in Nashville which is pretty close to me. I found a kit of theirs on another web site for $255 without the cam. They don't have prices or kits listed on their site so I will try to call them Monday to see how much a complete kit would be. Anyone heard of them? Should I just get my cam machined or should I get a stock one in the kit? How much, if any, would I benefit from a more aggressive cam with no other engine mods?

Regrind! How much performance you can expect depends on a LOT of factors, not the least of which is what kind of lift, duration, and centerline you specify.
First you need to nail down what c.r you want, then take the appropriate measurements and have the machine work done. After that your cam grinder will be able to make recommendations based on how you want to use the car, where you want the powerband, and what accessories (manifolds and carb) you use.
I see a lot of people recommending Oregon Cam Grinders, Might give them a call and see if their services fit in your budget.

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72 dart acquired 12/08 /6,holley2b, mopar perf intake, mopar perf header, cam, built motor,904 finally re-installed, 8.75....still needs sorting out.
99 dakota 318 5 speed reg cab picked up 9/09; Trans finally fixed! woohoo!

I have always just called them for prices have never been to their web site. The bearing are in my slant now. It is about to be started for the first time after christmas. Just need to find the time. I have used the bearings before with no problems. They plastic gauge correctly and looked ok to me. The main advantage to them is the thicker layer of embedible (sp?) material. If debris gets between your crank and the bearing it will pushed into the bearing and not harm the crank as much. The thicker layer of aluminum allows bigger pieces to get stuck in the bearing. Here is a link for the bearing company to look at http://www.kingbearings.com/advantages.html . Maybe someone knows more about them than I do.

As far as who to purchase from I find the most value in mid range products. I always feel cheated when I buy a product that is high end and find it only marginally better and feel real dumb when I buy low end cheap product that is junk. I think finding the correct sizes and getting all the parts to work together will be the bigger challenge then what manufactures your use. You may want to ask others on this board what manufactures to stay away. They have way more engine building experience than I do.

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1964 barracuda 198 slant

Well really for now I just want to have a reliable slant. I don't care all that much about performance as I have a dd that is pretty fast and this is just a toy. Actually, I would kind of like it to be slow. Plus money is a factor right now too. I may just shave the head and get it bored .030 and call it done. Unless that is not advised? I still want to run a 1 barrel for now too. Later on I would like to look into getting some power out of her but now I just want to drive it. I will give Engine Power House and Enginetech Monday if I get time to. I think I will go with one or the other of those two companies.

green1970,

I am running a near stock slant except for compression and a well tuned one barrel and it has made a huge difference in power and mileage. See my set up below my name, reground the stock cam to a mild increase but advanced, some head porting, 2 1/4 exhaust and a recurve make a huge difference. All these upgrades were very inexpensive for the results.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Aggressive Ted, your car is really nice. I like the little heat deflector you made for the carb and fuel line. Also, nice R/C boat. I never got into the boats but did get into the nitro trucks for a while. Anyway, I think for now I am just going to stick a stock grind cam in there. I still plan to mill the head a little and bore it but that will be it. I will check with Oregon cam grinders as I will obviously have my old bump stick laying in the garage and might as well use it for the next cam. I really hope to order a kit tomorrow and start working on getting the engine ready to come out. I was wondering, are the piston pins pressed in? I was looking in my manual and it said at room temp they should be a forced push? I don't really know what that means. My main reason for asking is I was wondering if I need to have the shop press them in. Also, should the stock rods be fine? I am assuming I should get them magnafluxed or something to make sure they are in good shape but I shouldn't need new ones unless it is bent or something right? I actually read that they are forged? I will let you all know what I decide tomorrow. Thanks for all the help.

Hey Green70
I think either company will suit your needs fine. As for your cam bump it up. I like the Erson 280/270 RDP or even the Erson 270. You will need to increase your compression to 9-9.5 to 1 to take full advantage. This makes for a REALLY fun street car that sill gets good gas mileage and has manners down low. You can have your cam reground by Erson to those specs.
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

66aCuda, I haven't called them yet but will shortly. How much would a reground cam run from Erson do you think? I just called a few machine shops around town and not surprisingly not too many wanted to deal with me. I found one that seemed very nice. The guy new prices without having to look them up and gave me a great quote and suggested a rebuild kit too. His kit was 480 though. It did come with a cam which I will probably be leaving out but we'll see. So the machine work came to a whopping 686 bucks before the government takes some of my dough too. Seems like a lot more than I was expecting. And that is if the crank will turn and polish. Otherwise it goes up 60 more bucks. There was a big difference, though, if the pins are a press fit or floating. He said that if they are floating they would only be $10 a piece but if they are press fit then they would be $36 a piece. Even if they are press fit is this something I would be able to do at home? He mentioned having to heat up the rod to slide the pin in? Anyway, the guy was super friendly and really sounded like he knew what he was talking about so I will more than likely have him do the work. Does this price sound about right to everyone? I know OklahomaJoe said he did his complete rebuild for 650 so it sounds kinda high to me but I could be wrong. Here is a breakdown of the costs:
Block cleaned-$65
Bored/honed .030 for all 6 cylinders-$90
R/r cam bearings and freeze plugs-$35
Magnaflux head-$30
Clean head and complete valve job (resurfacing valves and seats)-$100
Resurface up to .002-$42
Replace guides-$5.50 each
R/r pins-$216 if pressed/$60 if floating
Clean and polish crank-$40
If crank won't polish-Regrind-$100
Anything you think would be unnecessary or I could do myself. I know I could install the valves myself but I figured for 100 bucks that isn't too bad and I would need to rent a compressor. What do you all think?

Well
I think pressing the pins sounds REAL high. But I doubt that the valve job will cost 100 That sounds LOW. To install new OS valves, new Hardned seats, New guides, etc. is around 300 and up.
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

wrist pins need to pressed out....my guy has machine to heat rodend to allow slip in fit , but you got to quick /precise...one shot deal


keep on roddin'

I agree the head work will cost more than $100 since you're almost certainly going to need exhaust guides and will want hard exhaust seats.

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Joshua

I was thinking that the head work sounded pretty low. All together that is a lot more money than I was wanting to spend right now. I guess I was just thinking I could get it bored for around 100 and cleaned/checked for cracks for like 50 and the head milled and valves lapped for like 200 or so and I would do everything else but I guess there is more to it than that. I may call another place tomorrow just to get prices but I will hold off an this project for now as it sounds like it is going to easily go over a grand. I just can't justify spending that right now.