has anyone used wheel adapters to change from the small bolt pattern to the regular four and half inch bolt pattern. ?
I called a company named wheeladapters.com and they offer a custom aluminum set of wheel adapters for the early A bodies. The set costs $280 shipped. Any comments on these wheel spacers / adapters ?

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68 dart -4 doors with house paint, dents, satellite radio, and no rust
67 coronet -4 doors, quarter million miles, currently retired and growing older in the yard
73 charger -2 doors big block car, prowls phx in winter, sits inside during summer

Most recommendations are don't use them.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Make sure your life insurance is paid up and current before you go out on the public roads with wheel adaptors.

That's a fancy way of saying don't.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

For $280 you're well on your way to swapping to big bolt pattern without using adapters. That being said, the only adapters worth using are billet aluminum or steel and carry their own wheel studs. Hopefully they are also hub centric. The old cast aluminum ones that had dire warnings about not using them on station wagons, pickups or race cars are crap and may cause shortness of life. I have a pair of 1" thick 'adapters' that are really just fancy spacers (both bolt patterns are 5 on 4.5") so I can use +28mm offset 17x9" wheels on the rear of my Valiant. The billet aluminum is likely stronger than the center of the cast aluminum wheel, but I can't prove it since I have not tested an adapter and wheel to destruction.

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Joshua

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

They are illegal in Pennsylvania for a reason.

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Slanter General's Warning- "These wheels adapters are known to the State of Pennsylvania to cause shortness of life."

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Nothing wrong with wheel adapters. I can't specifically speak for Valiant experience using them, but our slanted roadster has run them for the last 5 years and driven thousands of miles.

Shop around as that price seems a bit high. I thought they were roughly $30-$50/ea (new) range last time we bought them at a swap meet...

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Linder Tech.com
Bubba's Trailer Park

I would Note that the roadster is probally MUCH lighter and more up to date than most of our cars.
Still use caution if you decide to use adaptors!!!!
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

I guess I'm with Lindross. I see no problem with them as long as they are installed and torqued properly. I would not use the cheap ones on a "high load" application like a heavy/fast car or track/autoX use, but have on my slow street car.

I have used beefy hub centric ones on the road course, and Mr. Cameron Tilley uses similar ones on the back of his 10 sec, 630 HP turbo street car. Mine were around $120/pr and are really 1" spacers to use deep offset late model Mustang rims (both axle and wheel are BBP).

All that said, converting to BBP is likely a better and safer choice.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

The billet ones are popular with the Jeep crowd to space the wheels out so they don't rub in during high articulation. These rigs typically see a lot of force in all different kinds of direction without issue. Those cast aluminum ones that used to be made by Cal-Custom are another story.

You can certainly safely use properly constructed wheel spacers. They will NOT cause shortness of life. Previous posters mentioned the use of billet spacers with wheel studs installed in the spacer, etc. Usually they are quite expensive but they are the only spacers to use. I've run this type of spacer on a Series IIA Land Rover for years...absolutely safe but you must torque them properly and be diligent about checking the torque regularly. Cheap thin spacers that just "shim" out the wheel probably will cause shortness of life.

I don't think I would use a wheel spacer unless it was at least 1 inch thick with associated billet construction etc. The cost of these are upwards of $250 which really gets you looking a new wheels with custom back spacing, etc.

If you need improved wheel spacing then spacers are a solution. If you can get your hands on the spacers and you are struck by the massive nature of the spacer then they are likely good to go. As mentioned by other posters the proper spacers have been used for many, many years in very extreme 4x4 applications...I have never heard of or seen any failures even remotely associated with the use of spacers in over 20 years of off-roading experience. Broken U-joints, roll overs, etc, etc, etc--yes....wheel spacers--nope. Of course at $75 a piece or more they should perform.

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Slanted D150