Hi there, I've got a 69 valiant 2 door post. I need a carb to get my car going. I've been offered a holley 1920 off of a 1972 dodge. I know there have been some changes to the holley 1920's over the years, but does anyone know if this carb will work in my car using my linkages and so on? My engine is original to the car.

I know there was a change in 1973, but that is all I really know. I'm pretty new to this.

Thanks for any advice.

Welcome on the board. The '72 carb will hook up and work fine. Use a thick base gasket, Fel-Pro #60125. There'll be a couple of unused hose nipples on the newer carb. Plug the small one down low on the driver's side near the front, and leave the large one at the top front facing the passenger side unplugged and not connected to anything. Your '69 has a one-year-only throttle anti-ice system; there'll be no provision on the '72 carb for this, so cap the nipple on the underside of the air cleaner (otherwise you'll draw dirty air into the engine). If your '69 originally had a Carter carb, the fuel line hookup will be located differently (on the front of a Carter, on the passenger side of a Holley). Good excuse to do the Fuel line mod.

If you're not sure about the condition of the '72 carb, don't pay a lot for it; it may not be in any better condition than the one on your '69. And don't buy a "remanufactured" or "rebuilt" carb from a parts store; they're junk. You'll want to get the three books described in this thread as soon as you can.

Tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this thread; remember this engine needs periodic valve adjustment, and carburetor operation and repair manuals, training movies, and links to 1920-specific threads are posted here.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks so much!

I've tried and tried and tried to get my 69 carb to work to no avail. Before, and after the rebuild, gas wont come out of the discharge nozzle when the accelerator pump is activated.

The car runs with the choke fully on, but when it warms up and kicks down to no choke it runs lean and when you throttle the gas it just sucks air. I noticed when I pump the gas to get it started, nothing comes out of the main discharge nozzle, so the only way I can get it started is by pouring fuel down the carb. It does idle fine, and if you slowly rev the engine it's also OK.

I dismantled the cab several times now, let it soak in a carb cleaner (removing all rubber parts etc), and let the economizer body soak for 24 hours in carb cleaner. Then blowed air through all holes and still nothing.

pinballkyle,

With out the accelerator pump discharge working it is very awkward and frustrating because the car wants to run until you put a load on it. I drilled out the discharge nozzle on mine to .035 (#65 drill) for a very healthy pump shot. However, you might try running a old guitar string (the fine solid ones, not the medium to large wrapped strings) through the hole to knock loose the blockage. You can feed it in there once the economizer body is removed. You can also run it down the low speed air bleed and the high speed air bleeds. They usually collect dirt and or carbon if your carb has been running rich or just from setting around on a shelf collecting dust. Make sure you adjust all the slop out of the accelerator pump linkage.


Hopefully you can get it working again.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

[quote="Aggressive Ted"]pinballkyle,
. I drilled out the discharge nozzle on mine to .035 (#65 drill) for a very healthy pump shot. However, you might try running a old guitar string (the fine solid ones, not the medium to large wrapped strings) through the hole to knock loose the blockage.
Ted & Pinballkyle
Welding wire from a Mig welder works great for this as well.
Frank

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