The plug has 12 points. a ½" breaker bar or socket handle fits, but to avoid rounding out the points I usually put a short (3") piece of ½" square steel bar stock into the plug and turn it with a pair of Vise-Grips. The corners of the bar stock are square, not rounded like those of my breaker bar (for easy socket installation, I suppose).

The metal screw-in plug has 7/8"-18 thread, and could easily be replaced by a more conventionally-headed item such as this magnet-equipped one.

Chrysler replaced the metal plug sometime in the mid 1970s by a rubber push-in plug that requires no tool to remove or install. It can be used in place of the older metal plug to end the hassle permanently. The current part number is 52070428AA.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

You're right Dan. The 1/2" socket fits just fine. Thanks for the info. BTW, my plug has 8 points. I counted very closely!

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63 Dart GT Convertible

sorry, right, 8, not 12. I just got the wrong multiple of four, is all!

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

So I was replacing the pinion seal, and HOLY SMOKES! Did the hand of God make the last quarter-turn on the pinion nut?!! I had about 8-feet of cheater on the wrench, and only after soaking with Kroil for a day! I was able to get the nut back on within about 1/16th a turn of the original position. Hopefully that won't cause problems. I read elsewhere that the torque had to be measured while removing, but that is for removing the rest of the guts of the diff, not just the pinion flange and seal, right?

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63 Dart GT Convertible

IME it takes a breaker bar and a 3" extension to open up a 7¼ drain plug. The 1970 part # is 1392 371 for the plug. The 8¼ used the same part. If you give a Mopar parts counter guy this number, he can cross it on the computer system to the current number.

Before attempting to remove, clean it thoroughly so that the extension may be fully seated in the plug. If the plug is "buggered-up", try grinding flat spots on the outer edges that are 180º apart and remove with a Carolina Socket Set (aka cresecent wrench) or a pipe wrench. Note: Have replacement available, do not lose gasket (2070 122).

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You can't fix stupid. - Ron White

I think you are supposed to measure the torque and return it to the same torque, but I did what you did, and just put it back on. I got a few drips out of it later, so I tightened it a little more, and it seems to be OK now. I got bigger fish to fry at this point.