Last night I finished the steering column and now my four speed swap is complete. I installed the transmission as I bought it with only a quick look inside to make sure nothing major was amiss. The only thing wrong was a wear spot on the 1-2 fork and some surface rust on the gears. I flushed it, put in new fluid and called it good for now.

The rust on the gears made me think it was stored without fluid and the bearings were probably rusty as well, but it runs super quiet and shifts smooth. However, it leaks from the shifter pivots, the reverse switch and the tailshaft. Since I'm going to pull it out to address the links and to replace the fork I am considering swapping the internals with an aluminum 833OD I have in the shop.

The bellhousing is from an 833 so the bearing retainer is not an issue, but I've searched here and other sites as well and haven't been able to find if there are any show stoppers.

FWIW, I'm not interested in using the OD. The wide ratio with the three-speed stunk and I wouldn't want to go back to that. Since I don't do a lot of highway driving so the OD wouldn't do much for me anyway.

Any info would be appreciated, I'd rather get everything I need upfront so I can complete it in a day instead of taking it apart only to find the countershaft rides on a different diameter shaft or something else that would keep this from working or require kustom parts. TIA

Pretty sure the only difference (besides the input bearing) was a shorter support shaft for the counter gears (technical name escapes me right now) due to a expansion plug to seal it on the bellhousing end. Use the one that matches the case and you should be fine.

Might check the output shaft also, some of the OD trans used a 904 slip yoke. If they are different, you should be able to swap the extension housing with the mainshaft into the aluminum case and make it work.

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'15 Chrysler 200S V6
'74 Duster 360, factory 4 speed car