Can someone reccomend a Harmonic Balancer for me ?

Timing mark is on Drivers side.

Looking for a cheap but good balancer.

Thanks.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Late model post-76

mid-70s three groove truck damper

another 76-up

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

You can buy a nice brand-new Australian-made damper with two timing marks (one of which will match up with your driver's-side timing indicator) from Falcon.

Things still seem a little murky, knowledge-wise, on exactly how practicable or wise it is to use '76-up (cast-crank) dampers on '76-down (forged-crank) engines or vice versa. All slant-6 dampers physically interchange, but it seems likely there are functional differences. Looking at the '82 Dodge Truck FPC, for example, I see three different dampers listed: One for manual transmission with 10" clutch, one for manual transmission with 11" clutch, and one for automatic transmission. The belt drive at the front of the engine doesn't know or care what kind of transmission is bolted to the back of the engine, so that's not it. But the mass, inertial characteristics, and resonant frequencies of the flywheel for an 11" clutch, a flywheel for a 10" clutch, and a torque converter/flex plate can reasonably be expected to be substantially different. So the difference in vibration dampers is likely different vibration-damping performance profiles. And that's just for a cast-crank engine. There's additional discussion on the matter here. Keep in mind that the vibration damper's job is to prevent the crankshaft breaking, not to address vibrations you can hear or feel from the driver's seat. It's possible that some crank/damper combinations other than those intended by the factory may work without any problem. It's also possible some of them may seem to work fine but fail to damp (or may even amplify) crankshaft torsional vibrations at a particular frequency. If you happen to hit that frequency by hitting the "right" engine speed and load, the crank may break.

We need more solid, reliable data, but I have a hard time imagining how to get it.

Note 1: In Australia where the linked damper is from, all slant-6 engines had forged cranks.

Note 2: The linked auction for the 3-groove damper has incorrect years listed; that damper does not seem to show up in '74 or '75 FPCs, which calls into question the seller's statement that it is factory equipment on both forged-crank ('74-'75-early '76) and cast-crank (late-76+) applications.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I agree with Dan that you should get a damper for your crank, at least one for forged crank or one for cast crank. Assumedly you are building a forged crank motor.

Personally, I have never had a problem with a stock damper where the rubber lip looked OK (never tried any with cracked/missing lip either), up to 5500-6000 RPM depending on my motor buildup.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Good catch Dan.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Well,I have no idea what crank I have. All I no is that the timing marks are on the drivers side.

How Would I know if I have a cast or forged carnk ?

Can someone help me out with the years for cranks ?

Thanks for your help.

Do you know what year your engine was manufactured? Can we assume from your handle that you have a 1970 vehicle?

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

No Idea what year the engine was manufactured.
It is a remaned engine in a 65 Dart. Thats all I know.

I presume it is the early (forged) crank ?

Price is right on those Mopar balancers you showed me.
Just not sure if they will work.

How do these cranks break down year wise ?

Oy. Do you happen to know who remanufactured the engine? I have heard some real horror stories about reman motor purchased from chain auto parts stores with regards to mixing and matching parts.

The biggest crankshaft change occurred in 76 as a running production change from forged crankshafts to cast crankshafts. The problem is the cranks are totally different and not really interchangeable. If you read the thread Dan linked to there is more discussion about the different breakdown of dampers and the proper application of each style.

I hate to say it, but you may need to pull the oil pan on the car and physically look at the crank to get a positive ID.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

You don't have to disassemble anything to see if you have a forged or cast crank. If you have a forged crank block there will be a large casting number on the driver's side of the block. Cast crank engines had very small casting numbers. See the casting number page. http://www.slantsix.org/articles/parts-matrix/jpg.htm

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Joshua

Well it looks like a have a forged crank then.

So does that mean I need to look for a forged crank balancer only ?


Sorry for all the questions,just trying to find the right part the first time.

Welll, if he just bought whatever motor the jobber sold him, he could have a cast crank motor with a forged crank or vice versa. 6shotvanner just gave me a hydraulic motor and told me that he had purchased a remanufactured hydraulic motor that the rebuilder had stuck a forged crank in. That is why I say you might need to pull the pan to be absolutely sure.

If Blown 70 can trust the rebuilder, then Joshie225 is right on.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Cast cranks don't fit earlier blocks. The cast cranks have narrower rod and main bearings. You can't put the forged crank thrust bearing in a cast block. You can put hydraulic valve gear in an earlier engine though. That's no big deal.

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Joshua

If there is a problem with using a cast crank balancer on a forged crank, or vice/versa, why is it ok to use a "Falcon" balancer on either crank?

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225