Yes, my Accusump system is manually operated and pretty basic.
It does what I need it to do:
1) Pre-lube the engine for a cold start.
2) Protect the engine if the pick-up "sucks air" on a hard launch or hard braking.

As for the engine set-up, it has a windage tray, up-stroke crank scraper and baffles welded into a stock sump size SL6 oil pan.

I do not have experience with the electronic valves so I can not speak to their performance, one of those would save me some "reaching for the lever" work.
DD

I got a question, what if you use a already available P/S pump say a Neon P/S, could you use it for a pre-lube "device" ? because it is a nice cheap alternative, remove the pulley from the pump use a old timing set with chain fab a bracket where ever, get some big custom hoses fabbed, you use a block off plate for where the op was. Remove the rear oil galley and plumb the "IN" line to the rear galley inlet, weld a bung in the oil pan "suction side" of the PS pump, and use a power window motor, you may have to go through several to find one that has a gear with the proper width for the chain.

a simple bracket bolting them together with a simple slide tension adjuster, like our alternators. its easier to explain, and even easier to build, you may add at most an additional 1- 1 1/2 quarts of of oil for safety reasons, also if you add a swinging pickup to your stock pickup you should be golden (especially if you want to throw your car around the twisties).........

What aftermarket OP pickup can be used ? and would it be worth it to enlarge the hole for a 1/2" pick up ? if using a after market pump IE the Pep boys $5.00 special ?

-Mike

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

i welded a cast 1/2in npt pumbing fitting to the stock oil pump impeller cover and then to another coming from the pan attached to stock pickup screen, it works great. http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/20 ... good-times http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/22 ... good-times here are some pits.

Very nice indeed !!! how close is the pickup screen to the bottom of the pan ? Did you have to block off where the pickup tube connects to the block ? and is there any issue with cold startups ? Is that a oil pressure sender towards the rear of the block ? and what kind of hose did you use to connect from the pump cover to the OP ? Sorry for all the questions but that is an awesome setup bro

-Mike

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

also what is the T fitting on the back of the oil pump ?

-Mike

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

Is the extra oil gallery boss large enough to place a 3/8" or 1/2" npt fitting and plumb an Accusump directly there? Would that location make sense? This seems like it would be worth doing, if just for pre-oiling to add engine longevity.

Thanks,

Moose

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1966 Clark Cortez, Industrial /6

When I had an Accusump on my road racing 225 I had it connected to the 3/8" NPT fitting on the oil pump which normally holds the oil pressure warning switch. I would not do this again without using a remote oil filter and check valve. When I had the Accusump connected directly to the oil pump and an oil pump mounted filter the anti-drainback valve in the oil filter was found wadded up apparently due to the back-pressure from the Accusump. Having a remote filter and an in-line check valve will protect the filter from the back pressure and ensure the oil discharged by the Accusump goes into the engine and bearings rather than back toward the oil pump.

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Joshua

My Accusump is coming so how to best hook it up is next.

Is there a remote oil filter kit available for a SL-6?

Is there another way to hook it up other than to the oil pump?

How does Doc hook his up?

If I support the Accusump off the block can I hard plumb it instead of using exposed "flex" line?

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1965 Dart 110k, 225, Carter BBD Super Six, 2 1/4 single exh., sbp manual scarebird front disc, 7 1/4 rear 2.94 sure grip, 14 x 4.5 OEM wheels, 833 OD with hyd. throwout bearing, HEI, electric fan, ram air/heated air, Accusump. http://plymouthcarclub.com/

To do a remote filter get a good 3/4"-16 spin-on adapter, not one of the cheap die-cast ones and plumb to a remote filter mount. Put a check valve on the clean side of the filter. Canton sells good adapters and filters.

I would not mount an Accusump with hard line. You might be able to fit it on top of the valve cover, but then you'd have to remove it for every lash adjustment or other valve cover removal. My Accusump was on the trans tunnel and plumbed with AN-10 Aeroquip hose.

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Joshua

With the oil filter adapters (both sides); port/smooth the holes for better flow................

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

the pickup is 1/2 in of the floor of the base pan, i used 1in single wire hydraulic sucition hose and flat clamps on plumbing barb adaptor fitting of the same size, with start-up i find that oil pressure is instant, the larger dia hose has less restriction.the t on the pump has a line to the oil gauge and a oil line to the cam and oil pump gear for postive oiling, it is drilled through the rear chamber behind the oil pump . a 15lbs kill switch is in the oil gallery. oh yes you have to block the tapped openning for the stock pickup with a npt plug.

If the oil pump has a functioning anti-drainback valve would that help protect the oil filter anti-drainback valve from being damaged by back-pressure from the Accusump system since there is oil trapped between the two anti-drainback valves?

Would piping the Accupump to the oil gallery points as well as the oil pump be an improvement over piping it only to the oil pump to avoid damaging the oil filter?

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1965 Dart 110k, 225, Carter BBD Super Six, 2 1/4 single exh., sbp manual scarebird front disc, 7 1/4 rear 2.94 sure grip, 14 x 4.5 OEM wheels, 833 OD with hyd. throwout bearing, HEI, electric fan, ram air/heated air, Accusump. http://plymouthcarclub.com/

Plumbing the Accusump farther downstream from the pump by putting a fitting into the main oil galley would only make the oil have to travel a little farther upstream to reach the filter and pump. I am not comfortable relying on the check valve in the factory stand-pipe or the filter's anti-drainback valve. The Canton check valve is cheap insurance, but the remote filter is not unless you're already pluming in an oil cooler.

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Joshua