Ok this is the only place i can find for help with this. I am a chevy person by heart and a mod at a few f-body sites. Now I need help for a buddy. He has a 87 dodge w100 with the slant 6. I think it is the 225. He's at work now. But the truck just blows. Use to run good now it runs like crap.

Now what is wrong with it. The truck really has no power and bogs down. I has a new thermostat, radiator, rotor cap and button, plugs and plug wires. Along with a new rebuilt carb. I don't know the carb model off the top of my head. But the truck only gets maybe 5mpg???

I done tore the carb apart for dirt getting in it some how. Which i think is because the bowl vent. It is just open. I beleive it is suppose to be hooked to the evap stuff but not sure. Dodges have me lost. But I will work on anything.

On a cold start it won't stay running. Not sure why but it sucks... I've played with the choke and everything. Runs better than it did to begin with but still isn't right. So tomarrow I'm going to go over the vaccum lines or hope so. I know the egr isn't hooked up. And I was going to check the timing but how?? lol

He has a book for the truck the brand for advance and it says to use the pointer on the cover. There is none. I don't even see where it was. Unless it was on the bolt for the cover. But autozone repair documents say something about a slot in the belt housing.

So I would like to know about setting the timing and fixing the stupid carb problem if someone cares to help me out. I would like to get it running right for him since it is his only vehicle so he can save for something better on gas. So any help is big help. thanks

O and the truck suprised me at first when he got it. It ran good for being what it was. No it won't break 60-65mph. Where before it would do way better than that. Down hill it will go faster though. lol

The truck has Chrysler's notorious lean-burn ignition and carburetor control system. The best thing you can do for your friend is to remove the lean burn ignition and carburetor and swap the truck over to a non-computerized carb and standard electronic ignition. This swap has been covered numerous times before. Use the search button. Good luck!

Look for the HEI conversion. There is a lot of info in a FAQ sticky at the top of the page. So GREAT info as well can be found on the Home page in the articles section.
I have converted 3 of these trucks to HEI/EI and the really shine. I get about 20 MPG on my 87 on flat ground county driving.
Frank

_________________
Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

Sweet thanks. I was looking at the sticky's. What kind of prices are we talking? I have to try and convince him to do it. One? The carb why would we have to switch it out? I see the only thing on it electronic is the idle control.

Another thing is there suppose to be a timing mark on the front of the motor or what? Well the pointer atleast?

Another thing he said his truck is a w100 if that matters. Is there any valve adjustment on his motor? I has probably 100,000 miles on it.

If it's original motor then it's hydro cam and so no valve adjustment.As far as timing tab,is there a spot on the timing cover for a 'pointer' like a small boss with a threaded stud?

This is on a 83 hydro in my van,might look something like that.

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83 B-150 slant 6,4 speed. 79 B-300 360 pathfinder 4x4. 74 W-300 318 4x4 git-r-done 80 B-100 sl6,4speed

Well the back rocker or two is a little loud. And that is where I though the pointer was. But there is no stud or anything like that on the cover. Not even a place that looks to be it. The cover is moreless smooth. The motor has been replaced before he got it because I noticed it didn't have some stuff.

Today I adjusted the idle by the electronic idle. Instead of how it was adjusted before by the throttle stop screw. I think the idle a/f is a little rich still because you can smell it. Has no cat but 2.5 into a glasspack.

The bowl vent wasn't plugged up. And the canister hose that was suppose to go there was plugged into the other port. So I hooked that up right. Then was looking over the vaccum lines. Some were a little backwards. But the egr hose to after the vaccum booster was broke. The egr was already unplugged. So I blocked of the intake vaccume port and the carb ports that went to the vaccum booster. And just took it all off. Not sure if it was right but it runs 10x's better. It does have a new computer on it also. That I forgot to mention.

After I did all that and fixed a broke wire on the choke. Choke still doesn't work right but I think I have that figured out. The choke in the manifold works fine but as soon as you start it the vaccum assit thing opens the flap wide open. So I am going to adjust that here in a bit.

Any way after I did all that once it got warm you couldn't even tell the motor was running. Even with a exhuast leak at the rear of the manifold. Had much more power and ran around 25mph in town in 4th. Since it had no pointer after this. I loosend the distributor and turns it to the left just a slight hair to where the idle smooth out even more. Made sure it started fine which it didn't start right up even when hot. About 5 cranks. It then had more power and was able to run 4th and not jerk and carry one. I had it to 75mph so it is running better. It had some more in it but it was dark and worried about deer. O and no pinging. I think it is good where it is right now though.

Cool
I you need anything else let us know.
Frank

_________________
Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered