Hi all,

I'm looking at fuel pressure regulators to run 3-4 psi at high flow (280+HP) required for a certain carburetor setup. I hate to spend $150 for a regulator, but might do that if I have to.

Has anyone used these type regs? What can you tell me? Dennis, Doug, Sergio...?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-12-804/

I don't see how these "single port" regulators can physically work without a return line. Any ideas?

Thanks,

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I had one of these. Didn't really care for the size of the orifice that all the fuel flows through, but it worked fine on a 120hp engine with a Weber 32/36 DGV. I'm sure I don't need to tell you how the flowing pressure is always less than the shut-off pressure with a dead-head regulator or how much easier a bypass type regulator is on the fuel pump, but someone else might like to know.

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Joshua

That is what I have on my setup.

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

I have this regulator also, only 50-60 bucks, chromed version. heh.

This is dead end regulator.

Cheers, Wizard

Lou, I have the same regulator on my car now.

It works because your electric fuel pump will have a small bypass in it.

If it didn't (or the bypass gets clogged) you would blow fuel 3 feet up out of the vent tubes on a 780 Holley. The car will then flood, die, and catch fire.

Not that I have ever experienced this.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Howdy Lou,

I don't like to complicate systems more than necessary so I run a pump suited to the purpose.
The one I use for my SUs makes 42 gph. Is that enough for your needs?

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Sex, drags, and rock & roll.
Dick, 225% crazy.
Hobby (cars, that is) Photos link

Is this pump making buzzing/clicking/thudding noise? That's solenoid type that pulses. Not suitable either especially for weber. Rotory type is preferred. I'm asking about that for the reason as I wanted to buy quality type that lasts as long as OEM intank pump types (they are rotory also).

But mine needs to be in range of 3 to 4.5 PSI range. And does NAPA sells one like rotory pump for my needs?

Cheers, Wizard

Lou,thats the one I use.Do not use a liquid filled gauge in the engine compartment,they read differently at different temps.I was constantly adjusting it un till I figured this out.Would fire car up and adjust it to 5.5,then drive to work a check it,2.5.Re adjust,then carb would flood.Liquid gauges heat soak.Guzzi Mark

I haven't found a sub 4 lb vane or gearotor pump under $150.00.

The Mr Gasket solenoid job I'm using gives the SUs no grief what so ever, and I believe they're more sensitive to pulse & pressure than the Webers are.
Admittedly my only Weber set's still on the shelf so I'm relying on memory of opinions from road racers back in the '60s on that.

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Sex, drags, and rock & roll.
Dick, 225% crazy.
Hobby (cars, that is) Photos link

OK, you guys guessed I'm after a weber setup. Thanks for everyone's thoughts and experiences.

Dick, that pump looks like it has the right specs, but it might be on the edge for my ~280 HP motor. 42 gph is more than people think, if the rating is accurate.

I may just go with a Holley Red pump and the little Holley regulator.

Josh, I agree that is sub-optimal, but the alternative is $300+ for a reg and pump. Will contemplate...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Lou, my experience is that the Holley blue regulator will not maintain a steady 3-4# but I have had good luck putting two in series, the first one knocks the pump output down to 7-8# and the second one seems to hold 3-4#. My set up is all old stuff when the Holley blue pump was pretty much standard equipment on race cars, now there is much more equipment available.

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If you didn't drive it there, it's not a street car.

Lou,

The only difference I can tell between the Holley Blue and Red pumps is the relief valve spring and the paint color. I used to run a Red Pump without a regulator feeding a Holley carb. Actually, the '66 Dart still runs this setup, I just don't own that car any more! A cheap way to get this done would be the Holley regulator and Red Pump relief spring or even a trimmed Blue Pump relief spring. The other option that's cheap, is quieter and also doesn't offend my sensibilities would be a pair of pulse-type pumps in parallel.

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Joshua

I used to snag old (70s) Honda Civic electric fuel pumps -- under the back seat, IIRC. Very nice little units. I have no idea what volume they would flow. Honda enthusiasts would probably know.

The pumps from an old Jag XJ6 might be decent as well. I had a series one XJ6 and XJ12.

Thanks for the additional input. The Red pump already is 7 psi out, so one reg oughtta do it. I could also get a Carter 6 psi 70 gph pump and run the Holley reg down to 3-4.

Seymour, did you ever have trouble sinking the floats on your DCOE's with too high fuel pressure? I think that's what happened when we tried to run these on the V before with a stock pump and no reg. Ran great until it got on the power and 4000RPM+, then bogsville. James L likely had it pegged...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I never tried higher fuel pressure with Webers. All the information tells you to keep the pressure low so I just did and it has always worked fine. When I got them I believe they were set up with a lower pressure electric pump and a Filto-Reg set to 3#. A Holley red pump and one regulator would probably work fine. I don't think you will find volume to be a problem.

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If you didn't drive it there, it's not a street car.