hey guys i just got my motor back in the duster after a whole year and i was wondering what would be some good things to check before i fire it up? and eny tips are appreciated

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1973 plymouth duster 225 slant six .30 over, erson 270 cam, 9.5 to 1 compression, big valves, headers, and a holley 4 bbl
http://cardomain.com/ride/3135091

hey that thing got a hemi? naw its just a slant six

Spin it over a few times with the plugs out to get the oil pressure up. That is always a relief to see 40 pounds or more oil pressure before you fire it.

Make sure you have lots of EOS or use motor oil for diesels.....they have a little more zinc, etc....for cam protection.

Keep it at 2000 rpm for 20 minutes to harden/peen the cam lobes.
Watch the oil pressure, rpm, vacuum and temp gauges.

Keep the timing light handy and distributor not so tight that you can't move it so you can keep it at 30 degrees max......
That helps keep the engine break-in temp down.

I am sure Doc has a patented process.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

whats EOS?

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1973 plymouth duster 225 slant six .30 over, erson 270 cam, 9.5 to 1 compression, big valves, headers, and a holley 4 bbl
http://cardomain.com/ride/3135091

hey that thing got a hemi? naw its just a slant six

engine oil supplement. its hard to find at parts stores. i believe you can get it form chevy dealers. its got zinc in it.

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What's that fuzzy blue thing being hurled this way?
::stick::
BOOSH!!!

Go buy a MOPAR magazine. Just about ever issue has adds that talk about it.
It is an additive that has extra zinc, etc......that protects the lifters. Some oils like Brad Penn and all the 18 wheeler diesel motor oils like Kendal, Rotella, Delo 400, etc. have higher quantities...It has been discussed here on the site many times. Do a search.

Since you have a racing motor why not protect it? especially during break-in.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

My engine builder recommends Lucas Engine Break-in Oil Additive:

http://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Oil-10063-P ... 248&sr=1-2

I also add one pint with every oil change. You can get a case of 12 from Amazon for $107.

Roger

The Lucas company . See here.
That is, at best, a pointless waste of a lot of money. At worst, you are damaging your engine. See this thread, particularly the fourth post (mine).

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

If you can't find EOS, (I'm not sure they still sell it) redline makes an additive for the same purpose, zinc based I believe. Some of the cam companies sell one too.

I would keep an eye on the temp. You may want to do the cam run in-in in two or three sessions with some cool down time in between. New engines can get hot, especially if the timing is off.

Comp cams make a good break-in lube part # 159. It can also be run after the break-in.

thanks for all the help guys. do yall run antifreeze when your breaking in an engine? becouse it leaks a hole lot easyer than just water but i dont want the block to get rusty.

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1973 plymouth duster 225 slant six .30 over, erson 270 cam, 9.5 to 1 compression, big valves, headers, and a holley 4 bbl
http://cardomain.com/ride/3135091

hey that thing got a hemi? naw its just a slant six

I like to run straight distilled water no additives until atleast cam breakin is done.When you drain the system any spills aren't harmful to the enviroment or living creatures and distilled H2O is recommended for mixing with MoPar spec anti-freeze.You're not going to create any rust with the short time it's running H2O and any leaks that might crop up won't be all icky sticky to clean up.

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83 B-150 slant 6,4 speed. 79 B-300 360 pathfinder 4x4. 74 W-300 318 4x4 git-r-done 80 B-100 sl6,4speed

I'm watching this thread, as I've just gotten my truck back together.

How does this soound?

I used rotella 15W40 oil for the initial start-up and cam break in.
I filled the rad and block with hot tap water for the initial half hour cam break in. It was drained and filled with antifreeze/ RO water.

The truck is getting it's safety inspection today and should be on the road this week.

I'm planning 500 km on this oil.. then change rotella again 2000 more km, then 0w30 synthetic.

I realize its a bit cool for 15w 40 right now, but it's all that i could get here. I'm keeping the truck in a heated garage for now.

As already noted, having good oil pressure, right when the engine fires-up and runs, is the #1 concern.
Once running, quickly check for any leaks, shut-off and fix as (if) needed.

The next thing I do is to confirm that all the push rods (lifters) are spinning.
A paint dab at the top of each push rod makes this easy to see.
If a pushrod is not spinning, shut-off and figure-out why. Don't be thinking that the cam break-in process will "fix it".

As for getting a new engine to start and to run well, on the first try... be sure the preliminary valve lash settings and the distributor position (static timing) are correct.
DD

Way too thick! Slow to get where it needs to get with brand-new tight clearances.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

thanks for all the info guys
well i got alot of parts on today and probly fire her up saterday

ok what about 10w 40 couse thats what i was gonna run. so what do yall recomend oil wise?

how long should i spin over the motor to build oil pressure? bc i dont wanna burn up the starter

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1973 plymouth duster 225 slant six .30 over, erson 270 cam, 9.5 to 1 compression, big valves, headers, and a holley 4 bbl
http://cardomain.com/ride/3135091

hey that thing got a hemi? naw its just a slant six