Sounds like a bad module. Did you wire in a relay to power the module? I am thinking that that might have been the problem in my brother's van (see the post above yours). My brother's van would run okay but idled rough and lacked power.

Does it matter if the ignition module is for a v-8, or does it have to be for a six cylinder? I ordered one for a 78 Camaro with a 350.

Someday, I am going to try the swap again, but use a relay and get a high quality ignition module. The one I got was from Autozone and I think it was bad right out of the box.

I tried two different relays, Im going to take the module back and see if thats the problem. I guess we'll see from there

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'74 Duster 225 Super Six w/904
14" Cragar SS wheels

I never used a relay on the 3 I have done. It dosent matter to the module how many cylinders there are. I have used V8 modules and one out of a Chevette

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The noise suppression capacitor connects to the + terminal of the coil. Does your brother listen to AM a lot?

I'd substitute another tach and check again.

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Joshua

Thanks. THe wiring looks like the suppressor hooks into the (-) terminal, but I could be wrong. Anyway, it turns out the noise was coming from a fried radio in the dash.

I swapped back to a mopar ignition module and the tach problem and idling problem went away. I think I might have wired the HEI wrong or gotten a bad module.

You want a module with two blade terminals on either side. Some of the 1980 and later vehicles used electronic timing control which you do not want. You want Standard Motor Products LX301. If they insist on an application tell 'em it's for a 1976 Chevy Camaro any engine.

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Joshua

Sounds like the timing's way off; did you remove or change or touch the distributor during your installation?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

If the distributer was not disturbed, try reversing the leads from the dist pick up to the module.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Thats what I thought at first. I did not remove the dist, but I hooked the mopar ign back up, and it fired up right away. Timing was perfect, abit jumpy tho
Tried that to, it was a no go. Took the module up to the local advance and it tested bad, to my surprise So I bought a new ACDelco D1906 as per the instructions. Wired it up, started right up. Its idling smoother than ever, and isnt sluggish anymore.

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'74 Duster 225 Super Six w/904
14" Cragar SS wheels

Some really great discussion going on in this thread, and maybe I missed it, but there's one big question I have before I take the HEI plunge: Where does everyone that use the relay have it mounted? Is there a mounting bracket for relays, do you make one, or does it just sit there? Can I use chewing gum?

Okay, that was three questions.

I'm planning on picking up an ECH EC23 connector and ECH AR294 relay as outlined in the new schematic on the HEI post if that helps. If any relay users wish to share their mounting secrets I'd be much obliged.

Thanks!

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Chuck and the Flying Valiant

On mine, I have the relay and a watertight fuse holder on a small bracket that I made. It is bolted to the firewall where the ballast resister used to be. It puts it in a good spot for the ignition on wire and for the main power feed from the starter relay. No new holes to drill and it is out of the way. The new power lead then follows the factory harness around to the passenger side.

That's a cool idea. What did you use to make the bracket?

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Chuck and the Flying Valiant

It's just a piece of sheet metal about 3 inches wide by 4 inches or so tall, with two bends so it clears the body seam that sticks out above where the resister was.

Cool! Thanks for your help. It also hit me last night that I have a junk voltage regulator I could probably convert into a discrete casing for the relay. I don't know if it'd fit or not though. I still need to go by NAPA and pick it up.

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Chuck and the Flying Valiant

Good news! I got my ignition kit installed and it worked!

Better news! I found a way to solve my relay mounting problem. The guy at NAPA recommended I use ECH AR274, which comes with a built in mounting bracket and is a few bucks cheaper than ECH AR294. The only difference is it has two "87" terminals, and either works.

Still better news! After a false start, I fixed the connection to the alternator, the engine leveled out, and it ran great!

Bad news! I went out today and the battery was completely and totally dead. No click. Nothing. Um...what happened? Any ideas? Here's some pictures of my setup. I'll be shrink wrapping it as soon as I figure out what went wrong.

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Chuck and the Flying Valiant