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 Post subject: Head(ache)
PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 3:38 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Tue Jul 10, 2007 4:36 pm
Posts: 17
Location: lawrence, ks
Car Model:
Hey all,
Got a little problem I could use some advise on. I have a 79 Dodge D100 with a /6 that wa rebuilt about 40k miles ago. I had the truck sit idle for about a year or two only driving once or twice a week around town. Then one day I get the bright idea to use the truck to drive back and forth to OKC from KC (about 320 miles each way) every week. The miles racked up and I neglected to adjust the valve lash :oops: until I noticed the misfire and by it was too late. Ran a compression check and number one rang in at 0 lbs. I adjusted all of the valves and rechecked the compression, 2 through five were fine but number one never went over 70 lbs. Now I notice that when the engine is cool it runs fairly smooth but when it warms up that number one is a completely dead hole. That leaves me with two options: I can pull the head and have it repaired at a machine shop or purchase a new or remanufactured head.

My questions are as follows:

1. Considering the engine is completely stock, is there a better aftermarket head or a company that sells upgraded heads that would make a difference considering the price? Buying the head also helps me out in that I don't have the truck out of commision while I wait a week to get the head back from the machine shop.

2. Assuming the valve is burned up and of course that makes the truck sluggish and inefficient, I am of the mind that all the damage that is going to be done has been done and I contiue to drive it as is. Should I be concerned about pounding this truck for over 600 miles a weekend only running on five cylinders? My biggest concern would be somehow damaging the piston or rings but I can't see how that could happen when there is no fire in the hole...thoughts?

Thanks


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 3:46 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2007 5:05 pm
Posts: 3767
Location: Black Diamond, WA
Car Model:
I wouldn't drive it any more than you have to......
Pick up a peanut plug head and go through it so it's ready to install.
Then one weekend do a head swap and you will be back in business,

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 3:59 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Sun Aug 02, 2009 10:20 pm
Posts: 77
Location: Spokane Washington
Car Model:
A.Ted is correct that is the best thing to do . If you were closer to me I would give you one I have six of these heads in the garage. You should be able to find one for cheap at your local yard. There are a few remanufactured ones on e bay now but do not know the quality.

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Raymond Flynn
Registered Six Offender!!!!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 4:03 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2005 5:09 pm
Posts: 2946
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
Car Model: 1962 Plymouth Valiant Signet
At best you're getting raw fuel into the cylinder on each intake stroke which can wash down the oil film and accelerate the wear. All sorts of other things can happen as well, all of them bad.

_________________
David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 27, 2010 8:11 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Tue Jul 10, 2007 4:36 pm
Posts: 17
Location: lawrence, ks
Car Model:
I really didn't consider the possibility of further damage and have probably already done that. I have been driving it like this for a while and it does seem to be running worse. I really won't know the extent of the damage until I pull the head, i guess. Now, what exactly is a peanut plug head? I have never heard of that.

Frank


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 27, 2010 11:12 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2007 5:05 pm
Posts: 3767
Location: Black Diamond, WA
Car Model:
They started making them in 1975. No drool tubes...
Click on the red link below my name. for pictures.
That is a 78 peanut plug head on a 74 block.
The engine is 4 years old and stays very clean.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 27, 2010 6:16 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Jan 09, 2010 4:54 pm
Posts: 215
Location: Lincolnton, North Carolina
Car Model:
Quote:
They started making them in 1975. No drool tubes...
What is a drool tube? :oops: I should know this.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 27, 2010 6:24 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Oct 25, 2003 12:41 am
Posts: 844
Location: wichita ks
Car Model:
come to Wichita I have a complete slant set-up ready to go. Pm me if interested. Lawrence


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 27, 2010 7:17 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Tue Jul 10, 2007 4:36 pm
Posts: 17
Location: lawrence, ks
Car Model:
OK. I have some last stupid questions.

What is/are the advantage(s) of the peanut plug head? I don't know what drool tubes are either. :shrug:

Are there any modifications required besides new spark plugs? It looks the the same head to me.

Again, Many thanks
Frank


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 28, 2010 7:23 pm 
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Board Sponsor & SL6 Racer
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Joined: Sun Jul 30, 2006 8:36 pm
Posts: 2432
Location: East Arkansas
Car Model:
OK. I have some last stupid questions.

What is/are the advantage(s) of the peanut plug head? I don't know what drool tubes are either. :shrug:

Drool tubes are Spark Plug Tubes they have a gasket which a lot of folks have problems getting to seal. They have a tendency to weep oil VERY slowly. I dont like the Peanut heads.

Are there any modifications required besides new spark plugs? It looks the the same head to me.

You cant run the extended tip spark plus in the peanut heads.


Frank

_________________
Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 29, 2010 9:04 am 
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Guru
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Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 4:32 pm
Posts: 4880
Location: Working in Silicon Valley, USA
Car Model:
The valve cover and valve cover gasket is a different size starting with 1980 hydraulic lifter engine, peanut plug heads.
DD


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 30, 2010 7:08 pm 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Wed Jun 30, 2010 5:59 pm
Posts: 4
Car Model:
I have to agree that there are a different size in the Valve Cover Gasket Setand the Valve Cover in terms of the car itself. This might be very useful to us for sometimes we get to confuse that it's the same. Hope that all is well now with your car.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 30, 2010 7:18 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Tue Jun 05, 2007 5:27 pm
Posts: 187
Location: northern NJ, USA
Car Model:
Sounds like the same problem as my '71 Valiant with a newer head. The machinist cut through he hardened layer in #3E and #4E seats. The rebuilt engine has 3,500 miles use (mostly highway), and those two valves have receded ~0.045" into the soft cast iron.

If you want to save your head, you can have hardened valve seats installed. To slow the rate of damage, you can try using lead substitute additive in the fuel.

Ken
:-)


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