I have a 2.76 rear-end, was wondering how good this one is. auto-trans with/6. I have to do the seals on the drivers side. Before I get to crazy with clean-up and painting it. Should I think of changing it out. I drive the car for my winter transportation, and do most interstate driving (I drive at 65-70mph). I am trying to get better gas mileage with it. I get about 16-18 now, in the summer I was getting 18-20. What do you think???

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1930 Jordan Great Line "90", 1951 Chrysler Saratoga,1953 Plymouth, 1971 Honda CB 500 "4", 1973 Honda CB 350, 1975 Honda CB 500 twin, 1988 Honda Shadow 1340, 1975 Dodge Dart Custom, 1992 Dodge 2500 turbo truck,1975 Schwinn Collgate 5sp.

I forgot to say but you might know it is a 7 1/4 rear end.

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1930 Jordan Great Line "90", 1951 Chrysler Saratoga,1953 Plymouth, 1971 Honda CB 500 "4", 1973 Honda CB 350, 1975 Honda CB 500 twin, 1988 Honda Shadow 1340, 1975 Dodge Dart Custom, 1992 Dodge 2500 turbo truck,1975 Schwinn Collgate 5sp.

If you mainly do highway driving, stay with the 2.76 ratio for MPG.
As an FYI, I usually run the 2.93 ratio for the best all-around street combo. but the small difference between the 2.93 & the 2.76 does not warrent all the work needed to change it out.
DD

+1 for Doc's advice, start to finish.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

hydrive1953,

I agree with Doc too. I wore out (3) 7 1/4 rear ends. I drive long distances every day (130 miles) and love that ratio. I had Randy's Ring and Pinion build a 8 3/4, 2.76 Sure-Grip built for my 74 Dart.

I used to get the same mileage as you, better in the summer compared to the winter. Now it is more consistent year round. Click on the red link below my name for pictures of some of the mods. I have found engine/manifold heat is the key to getting consistent mileage, as well as keeping the engine in perfect tune. The 0-30W oil also made a huge difference in consistent mileage year round........

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

I am going to keep this set-up, I just had to put new bearings and rear wheel-seal in the driver side, and re-did the rear brakes Thursday!!! Not to hard, but kind of pricey in the pocket-book. All is well and going good I just drove 164 miles to work with no trouble. It was like a small version of my dodge truck(the rear end work that is). The car seams to have more pep off the line and that shudder, I had on hard braking is gone!!! The rear-end oil was like molasses in the north pole in Jan. What the @#$#@!!!!! I can't see how the dammed thing was working at all!!!!!!!!!!! my wife did not like spending the money on this thing, but after I told her that we have no car payments EVERY MONTH!!! she thought and did not mind spending the money now!!!

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1930 Jordan Great Line "90", 1951 Chrysler Saratoga,1953 Plymouth, 1971 Honda CB 500 "4", 1973 Honda CB 350, 1975 Honda CB 500 twin, 1988 Honda Shadow 1340, 1975 Dodge Dart Custom, 1992 Dodge 2500 turbo truck,1975 Schwinn Collgate 5sp.

I'm guessing you feel pretty confident in the new wheel bearing and seal you changed on that one side. As you saw, that is a sealed, pre-lubricated bearing, getting NO lubrication from the third-member oil bath. As the other one is also probably filled with grease that is 30 years old, and if you think like me about preventative maintenance being way cheaper than a tow and repairs, I think I would feel really, really good about changing the other bearing also, and having both new rear wheel bearings that I never had to even think about again?? I had one make a hum once in a newly bought 75 Dart, and when it was removed I was amazed at how bad the grease was, how sloppy the bearings, and the fact that it really didn't exhibit any screaming about-to-die symptoms. I have begun changing all the rear axle bearings in all 4 our family's 74, 75, and 76 Darts and Scamp. DYI for about $90 in parts, or send it out for about $3-400.00 in our area. Plus, as an added bonus, you also can OH those brakes at the same time! Such a deal. Pat

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"Louise", a 1976 Dart Custom project, (now sadly reverted to being just an "organ donor" to our other project Darts.)

Good point! I did that religiously every 6 months trying bearings from various auto parts houses with out much luck. Maybe they were all Chinese bearings???? The races would crack and starting eating the bearings. I went through 3 different rear ends in 5 years thinking that the housings might have been bad. On the last 7 1/4 rear end the planetary gears and the rear wheel bearing races went again.

That is when I decide to have a 8 3/4 2.76 Sure-Grip built. Still driving the windy back roads to work and back four years later and no more problems! After break-in I went to full synthetic rear end oil. It is nice and quiet.....

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

I had 7 1/4 bearing problems like Ted for a while.I was using SKF brand bearings and one axle shaft was slightly larger in dia. and the bearing was more difficult to press on the one side.I changed to BCA brand bearing on that side,and never had anymore problems.The BCA bearing must have had a slightly larger ID.and was easier to install.

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V8?? We don't need no stink'n V8!!

I was told at the shop that put the bearing on for me that allot of NEW jap cars and suv's are going back to this set-up!!! and the never make more than 35,000 miles. They think it is due to bad cheap bearings!! Wow new car with OLD TECHNOLOGY!!! Man one step forward and 40 back!!!

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1930 Jordan Great Line "90", 1951 Chrysler Saratoga,1953 Plymouth, 1971 Honda CB 500 "4", 1973 Honda CB 350, 1975 Honda CB 500 twin, 1988 Honda Shadow 1340, 1975 Dodge Dart Custom, 1992 Dodge 2500 turbo truck,1975 Schwinn Collgate 5sp.