It ocurred to me that push rod length may not be my only concern. With a total of .175 removed between the head and the block, do I need to worry about the length of my head bolts? How much clearance do I need at the bottom of the hole and is it safe and prudent to grind some length off of the bolts?

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

If pre'80 iron block, then you are probably fine. Best to check though. I have heads with up to 0.110"manifold side/0.210"plug side angle mill and no issues. As long as you are still on the threads (turn easily), then you should be OK on length. If you are bottoming out on not-fully-cut threads, I would worry.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I checked my block after decking and before assy. I had over .200 more than needed before I would bottom out. This was with .100 off the block. I would make sure you run a clean out tap down there (you should do this for ALL the bolt holes anyway).
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

rather than cut the bolts could you not add a washer? Just asking ,Lawrence

I do!

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Joshua

Actually, I thought of that too. I've seen head bolts that use washers but I believe they were machined, not stamped. Where would I get them?

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

http://www.boltdepot.com/Washers.aspx

grade 8 hardened washers

I bought mine at an engine rebuilding shop. If you wanted to mail order some you could get these from Summit. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MAN-42102/ It's enough washers to do a couple of slant heads. The .125" thickness will make up for a pretty good head milling job too.

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Joshua