Hi, more electronic ignition questions. Seems like the more I read , the more confused I get. Can anyone suggest an electronic ignition conversion or is there one that eliminates the ballast resistor? It seems to be a weak link to the point that everyone says "You do have a spare in your glovebox, don't you?" I'm confused about how many components I need for the factory EI or maybe the Pertronics unit is okay. Any straightforward help? Thanks

The ballast resistor works with the coil's impedance to passively control the coil current. HEI systems use active current control and therefore do not need a ballast resistor. Factory Chrysler electronic ignition does not control coil current so a ballast resistor is required. I converted to HEI controlled ignition when I moved away from points in my Valiant. I bypassed the original ballast resistor with a jumper wire.

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Joshua

Thanks for the link Reed. I'm not real ignition literate so I'm gonna have to take some time to read it(again & again & again). I think the Pertonix ignition uses the ballast resistor too so sounds like HEI might be the way to go soon as I can get a clear parts list and my credit card warmed up.

valiant1966,
I have been experimenting with a few different setups.

Milliamp output ratings are based on input amperage. All MSD rating are done with the MSD ignition box so they are not based on the coil alone.

When running the factory MOPAR EI, you can remove the resistor and buy a 3 ohm Pertronix coil and your good to go.....
You can use the round canister version #40501 (oil filled) or #40601 (epoxy filled) or better yet the E-core HV 60,000 volt coil #60301.

Pertronix Ignitor 1, 2 & 3 systems do not use a resistor.

Pertronix coil output values vary between their coil ohm ratings (.5, 1.5 & 3 ohms) and how much input they receive from the control box. When using the Pertronix Second Strike box or the Ignitor III system or MSD, Crane, GM HEI, etc. the output to the coil is around 8 amps. The MOPAR ECU (stock, orange or chrome box) the output is approximately 4 amps same as the Ignitor 1 System.

As an example stock points and resistor with a 40601 3 ohm oil filled coil will produce about 25 milliamp output to the spark plugs.
Using the Ignitor 1 System with out a resistor, output goes up to 34 milliamps do to the elimination of the resistor.

Using the Ignitor II system is similar output as the MOPAR Orange box. Based on 4 amps input the ratings area as follows:
1. Using # 60130 3 ohm 60,000 volt HV coil the output would go up to 50 milliamps.
2. Using # 60115 1.5 ohm 60,000 volt HV coil the output would go up to 75 milliamps.
3. Using # 60104 .5 ohm 60,000 volt HV coil the output would go up to 90 milliamps.
The problem when using a MOPAR box is that we are limited to using the 3 ohm coils for safety reasons when not running the resistor. That allows a full 12 volts at all times at the coil. If we want to use the .5 or 1.5 ohm coils we need to add the resistor back into the circuit for reduced voltage which in turn will reduce the milliamp output rating.

The HV E-core coils produce more voltage and amperage and recharge much faster compared to conventional round coils.

I prefer running the MOPAR Orange box and 3 ohm Pertronix E-core HV 60,000 volt coil #60301 with-out the stock MOPAR resistor for a full 12 volts to the coil. It is a nice clean set up.

As mentioned above you can also switch to the GM HEI to eliminate the resistor.

I hope this helps eliminate your confusion.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Thanks for those output stats for the Pertronix. I've been using the Pertronix II with a 3 ohm coil and no resitor and I love it. On another car I have reliably used a Pertronix I with a 1.5 ohm coil and the resistor.

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Never seen a Valiant I didn't like!

Well I tried to quickly convert over from my orange box/ballast resistor/coil to the new internal resisted 60k volt coil last night. It wouldn't hit a lick. Bypassed ballast, start relay to + on the coil and I have all of the wires I had attached to the negitive on the old coil attached to the neg on the new coil. Does the coil body need to be grounded to the chassis? That I didn't do.
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Ford Aerospace specifications

Internal-resistor coils are a bad idea and a pain in the keister. Why are you using one?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Why couldn't you put in a piece of the stainless [?] resistor wire used in older GM cars. Also my Ford 4000 tractor has the same type resistor wire.

I'm using it because its what I have handy and I want a stronger spark to keep the plugs clean when working with the carb and orange box I have.
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vapor tower vaporizer

Oh! Kinda reminds me of this one time I wanted to change the spark plugs in my '65. I had some spark plugs for an '84 Chevrolet handy, so I tried installing those. Because they were, y'know, handy and stuff. Didn't work out so well.
And you figure you'll get this by installing an internal-resistor coil of some description because…?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.