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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 21, 2010 8:21 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Wed May 17, 2006 9:31 pm
Posts: 251
Location: Western Australia
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Quote:
Just a note:

Torch is Australianese for "Flashlight."

Don't light up the acetylene or propane! :lol:

But you knew that! :wink:

CJ
:lol: I didn't think of that :lol:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 21, 2010 8:31 pm 
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Location: Oregon
Car Model: 2023 Eichman Digger?
You will have to open the secondary just slightly to bleed air so you can close the primary down enough to make the idle circuit on the primary work. For the time being, close the secondary completely and see what you need to to with the primary mixture screws and primary idle to get yourself close to a decent idle speed.

I found that with the secondary completely closed the primary idle had to be opened to the point that the idle mixture screws didn't do anything. Opening the secondary plates up with the secondary idle screw in tiny increments until the primary idle mixture started to function correctly solved that problem.
Start with the mixture screws turned out from bottom about 1-1/2 turns.
The primary jets are likely too big. Before you get too carried away, stuff some 52's or 54 jets in there. 52's are a good place to start unless you have lots of cam and compression, then you might need to carry a bit more jet. I'd toss a WAG that the carb shipped with something in the 60's for jets and a 39 secondary plate, which will be too rich for anything not set up for the strip, or running some weird mixture of gasoline and ethanol.

:D

CJ

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 21, 2010 11:10 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Wed May 17, 2006 9:31 pm
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Location: Western Australia
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Factory jetting for the 390 (8007) is 51 primary and 34R9716-59 secondary plate - which equates to a 56 jet (IIRC).

That's what the book says, whether that's what goes in at the factory is another thing.

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 Post subject: Not my last two...
PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 5:26 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
Posts: 9714
Location: Salem, OR
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and 34R9716-59 secondary plate
The new version gets this plate, the old ones were equipped with a #34 which would be equivalent to a #52 jet with .026 idle bleeds.

-D.Idiot


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 8:09 am 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Wed Jan 28, 2004 10:56 am
Posts: 51
Location: Redondo Beach, CA
Car Model: 1964 Valiant Sedan
Isn't a "34R9716-59 secondary plate" a "#34"?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 8:20 am 
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Location: Oregon
Car Model: 2023 Eichman Digger?
That may be correct.
The 390 I picked up had some flakey stuff in it. 61 jets and 39 plate. Way too much fuel for my slant. It may have been another version, or somebody molested it. :roll:
DI put the PV anti-blow out conversion in it, and the conversion secondary metering block. No more plate.
The final set up was 52's, 56's, Orange cam on #2, 10.5 PV, 28 shooter. The small Holley wouldn't carry the stroker, so I ended up with a 600 Holley until converting to a 500 Carter AFB. (Way less trouble.)
I ran a 500 cfm Holley 2 bbl, but had problems with it on the street.

CJ

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 Post subject: Nope...
PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 6:33 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
Posts: 9714
Location: Salem, OR
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Isn't a "34R9716-59 secondary plate" a "#34"?
Read through the catalog and tech info at Holley.com

The old plate is now a 34R9716-34...your plate is listed as "equivalent to" 56 jetting (kudos to SV162...BTW I asked an Australian Soldier in Iraq for a flashlight while fixing their barracks air conditioner "eggnishna"... he asked me if I wanted hand thrown or rocket propelled... :shock: ...)

I might have a #34 knocking around since I don't use plates, the secondary block and jets are much better for tuning...

Send a PM and your address...once you've tackled your other problems...

-D.Idiot


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 7:14 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Thu Jul 19, 2007 10:18 pm
Posts: 317
Location: Phoenix, AZ
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What about this pasted in the sticky's? I have a 390 I plan on using also.. Mine is an 8007 and doesn't have "secondary jets". So how do I make heads or tails of this "sugestion"? I would like to know your final results just for my own reference...



-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Package: 4 Barrel Set-Up General Multi-Purpose
Carburetor: Holley List 6299
Manifold: Offenhauser Aluminum 4 Barrel PN P3690801
Manifold Modifications: None
Carb Specifications: 390 cfm Holley, vacuum secondaries
Primary Jet: #49
Secondary Jet: #52
Power Valve: 25R-591A-65
PV Channel Restriction: .052
Idle Air Bleed: .078
High Speed Bleed: .043
Diaphragm Spring: Yellow

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 Post subject: Re: Nope...
PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 8:00 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Wed May 17, 2006 9:31 pm
Posts: 251
Location: Western Australia
Car Model:
Quote:
"eggnishna"...
:lol: I like it!

Quote:
So how do I make heads or tails of this "sugestion"?
As far as I can tell the 6299 is the same as the 8007 with regards to bore and venturi size. But they must be different in some way. Someone with more knowledge about this will hopefully help us out here.
The jetting suggestion of 49 and 52 would be dangerously lean on my setup that's for sure. Maybe the air bleed size is adjusted to enable a smaller jet to be used??? :?

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 Post subject: The 6299..
PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 9:08 pm 
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Location: Salem, OR
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I've seen one at a swap meet...the 6299 is a 390 cfm Holley like the 8007 but was more calibrated for the "Pinto" crowd using the 4 cylinder...they are now antiques and the 8007 has superceded it...

The jetting of 51/52 in the primaries is about right, and the secondaries with the secondary block will allow the dial in for 52(even) 53-54(richer if drag racing...) Secondary spring will be subjective based on weight/rear gearing and transmission and carb size (I like the purple spring for street in the duster....when running the annular 600 Holley I like Brown better...if tuning the primaries only then Black is the spring...buying a quick change secondary spring pod is another good investment).
The power valve listed is a 6.5...most slants really like to "come on" sooner...sadly they don't make a 12.5 PV so the 10.5 becomes the next best bet...if your vacuum is lower then you may have to dail to see if the 9.5 or 8.5 is better (lots of cam and low vacuum reading necessitates the lower value PV)


-D.Idiot

SV162-I used to think accents weren't too much to worry about...the Aussies were great and pretty easy to understand...I ended up working on the British hooches for a short time, and my "liason" was a very pleasant "bloke" from a place near Wales...he got kind of uptight after having to repeat himself a few times to understand what the heck he was saying, he thought I was making fun of him! :roll:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 11:30 am 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Wed Jan 28, 2004 10:56 am
Posts: 51
Location: Redondo Beach, CA
Car Model: 1964 Valiant Sedan
Todays adventure.
I could hardly keep it running cold. Then I remembered I lowered the floats. I brought them back up to the threads and everything was back to "normal".

As suggested, I was going to try taking the secondary out of the equation. I went to back off the screw and found that it was already not touching the arm. So much for that. :cry:

I still haven't heard back from Holley. I would call them but I don't have time to mess with it today. Hopefully, they are having a lengthy yet productive group meeting on my case and will come up with the correct solution by tomorrow. :lol: :shock: :lol:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 8:09 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Tue Feb 14, 2006 10:00 am
Posts: 388
Location: Tucson, AZ
Car Model:
some thing I told Lou and was told to me from a holley junky, holley has a tendency to over torque the 4 metering plate screws inside the bowls and can cause a internal vacuum leak. Check screw hole top to bottom cross ways and see if that is your cause. Might help.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 24, 2010 7:24 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Fri Jul 13, 2007 11:11 pm
Posts: 794
Location: clearwater florida
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hmm i run a 390 holley on mine which is my daily driver i have a much bigger cam and i can idle as low as 600 rpm but i did have a few issues when i first put that cam in. It wouldnt idle at anything less than 1300rpm so i richened up the fuel/air mixture screws then made sure the linkage wasnt tight at idle which is wasnt the fuel/air screws fixed it not wanting to idle at lower rpm then it developed a surge when it would idle for awhile that was from the float being to high because my bolt loosens from time to time so i readjusted the float right below the sight hole fixed the surge. Hope this helps now the car idles at a very nice and rumpy 700rpm. I forgot to mention my carb was only 1 turn out on the fuel/air screw before the cam then i must of went out another turn or 1 1/2. hope this helps. oh and jets i run 56 jets at the moment but that probably doesnt help.
Kevin

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 24, 2010 1:33 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Wed Jan 28, 2004 10:56 am
Posts: 51
Location: Redondo Beach, CA
Car Model: 1964 Valiant Sedan
I have tried moving the float lower. Also, mixture in and out. Screwed in it dies, out it runs rough. It is happiest at about 1 turn out each screw and if I go either direction from there it gets bad fast.

I feel like it has to be a vacuum leak somewhere. Any suggestions for limiting the leak possibilities? I have the Aussie in/ex gasket, so I think that is sealing.

mopardemon71-Could you elaborate on what you said to check? I don't understand. Check the screw holes (the bowl screws?) top to bottom crossways, but how? Check for leaks or straightness? Sorry, no comprende.

If I pull the base gaskets, can I do anything to seal those better? I'd hate to put sealant on them, but I am awfully tempted. I will check the base of the carb for flatness when I take it off.

Any whizbang square bore base gaskets to be had?

Thanks for all the input so far.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 24, 2010 1:42 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Wed Jan 28, 2004 10:56 am
Posts: 51
Location: Redondo Beach, CA
Car Model: 1964 Valiant Sedan
Almost forgot. Received a reply from Holley.
Quote:
The most common causes for high idle is a vacuum leak or the throttle being held open by the linkage or by interference with the intake manifold.

Thanks
Most helpful. :x

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