WOW!

The first test drive with them in was yesterday and what a difference. My demon has really heavy springs- 1"+ torsion bars and 6 leaf springs. It corners great, but there were lots of squeaks and rattles, and the front left wanted to raise first on launch (definitely not a wheelstanding car, but you could feel it twist a little).

The ride is so much tighter now I can't wait to do my swinger the same way. The road works the suspension now instead of tweaking the chassis.

I used .125" 1.5"x3" tubing and welded to plates on the crossmember. The rears got the top of the tube cut to slip over the foreword subframe 'nubs' and the bottoms pie sliced to touch. The tubes wouldn't slip all the way up in the rear because I didn't slit my floorpans but the connectors are still probably one of the strongest parts of the car.

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madam im adam

Awesome! Do the doors/windows close the same? The ride stiffer or just "straighter"?

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72 dart acquired 12/08 /6,holley2b, mopar perf intake, mopar perf header, cam, built motor,904 finally re-installed, 8.75....still needs sorting out.
99 dakota 318 5 speed reg cab picked up 9/09; Trans finally fixed! woohoo!

There was no change in panel gaps/ door fitment. The car had torque boxes already from the factory and the doors/ panel gaps were never a problem. When they got welded on I had the car pretty level on big jackstands on the rear axle and the lower control arms as close to the wheels as I could get to load the chassis/suspension.

The car was always pretty rigid- that's why I was so amazed at the difference. I think the heavy springs all around transferred more to the unibody instead of soaking it up.

The car just feels way more solid and quiet now.

My swinger is a different story. That thing is really loose and could really use some extra support. As soon as I get my /6 d150 back on the road I'm tearing down the swinger for rehab- it's gonna get frame connectors, holes in the floor patched, rust under the vinyl roof fixed, bucket seats, some body work bla bla bla

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madam im adam

My understanding is that you want the frame supported level but the suspension unloaded when welding in connectors. Am I mistaken? I haven't put connectors in my Duster yet, but once I get the tubing (I've got 2x2" square steel tubing) cut and slit the floor pans I'll hopefully be able to use my buddy's stick welder to do them up.

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

I did a lot of reading on them and people on moparts and big block dart seem to ask that question over and over- how should the car be set up to weld in connectors? It seems like if you jack it up and the doors don't open then don't weld them in until everything is supported. My car was straight on the ground so I wanted to maintain that position and have room to roll around underneath with a welding rig

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madam im adam

That makes sense. I'll have to wait until I get my new door hinges and adjust the doors properly before I install my connectors, so I'll end up going with whichever menthod keeps mine straight as well.

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

I have done them both ways and the results were the same. I'm ready to do my 63 Valiant soon.

I've been debating whether to add some to my '64 Valiant convertible. Has anyone tried it on a convertible?...or can't you improve upon the stock bracing?

I added them to my 67 convertible (out of some free heavy 2" square tubing) and it made a huge difference. Supported the car on ramps under the front tires, and jackstands under the rear axle. I also added perches to the outboard side of the frame connectors and installed a 4-point roll bar which also added structure, and provided a place to anchor shoulder belts. This summer, I want to install some kind of shock tower brace under the hood, mostly for fun.

64 Convert:
I've been debating whether to add some to my '64 Valiant convertible. Has anyone tried it on a convertible?...or can't you improve upon the stock bracing?

I wonder if you could modify one of these 108 inch kits, to fit your 106 inch wheel base car?

I installed a set of 111" bolt on sub frame connectors under my 67 ragtop from Mancini. They made a big difference in tightening up the chassis.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC