For some reason most of the shops I called about rebushing the throttle shaft on my 1920 would say no as soon as they hear the word Holley and the one that said yes, a day after I dropped it off, now says the best they can do is a plug on the fuel bowl side and a plastic bushings on the other.

Has anyone had a Holley 1920 rebushed? Any recommendations for a shop in CA, around L.A. or Orange county?

There's no reason why a Holley 1920 body can't be rebushed with proper bronze bushings, but be advised that by the time it's needed, the rest of the carburetor is likely worn beyond repair. That plug-and-plastic-bushing business sounds half-baked. You might want to try Carbs Only and see what they have to say.

What year and model are you working on?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

The car is a '65 Barracuda. It fires and idles and once it's going, it goes but wants to die at low rpm. The $50 or so this would cost vs a new carb is worth trying to me.

Thanks for the link. I'll give them a call on Monday and see what they say.

hello Cyco13. I have rebushed a holley 1920. Do you have access to a drillpress? thats what i used

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85 d-100 HEI 2BBl
06 Toyota Corrola

I called Carbs Only and they say they can do it. I also found another shop closer to me that quoted the same price buy neither is open on the weeknd so I've got yo ask someone to drop it off for me.

Carl, I don't have access to a drill press but how hard was it to do yourself? Where did you get the bushings from?

it was not hard, I just took the throtle shaft out, the cover for the bowl, removed the float. Then I set the carb on the side ware the float cover was and drilled it with a 5/16 drill bit all the way thru . Then pressed the bushings in, cut the exess off. then drilled the bushing out to .005'' bigger than the shaft all the way thru sp the shaft wont bind. I think the bit was .267 not shur tho. Then i rebuilt it with a kit from autozone. Bushing came from a do it best hardware store but any good hardware store should have something that would work. Bushing specs. 5/16x1/4x1 good luck

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85 d-100 HEI 2BBl
06 Toyota Corrola

Well a month later I finally got my carb rebushed by a friend and it's still not running right. The throttle shaft is nice and snug, rebuilt the carb with a new rebuild kit, but it's still acting like a vacuum leak, I can also hear the sound of air being sucked in but not as bad as before. The idle mix screw has little effect and it wants to stall if you rev the engine. The stalling out is helped somewhat if the top of the carb is partially covered.

Does this sound like a vacuum leak or could it be something else? I tried spraying carb cleaner around the base of the carb with no change to the idle.

If the car has power brakes unhook and plug the booster vacuum hookup and try it.

What kind of shape is the economizer body in?
Is it nice and clean?
Can you run fishing leader through all the holes?
Are there and plugs missing from it?
How big a pump shot do you get?
Mine looks like a fire hose let loose!

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

No power brakes but I did try unhooking and plugging any vacuum lines at the carb with no change. economizer body looked pretty clean and I get a healthy pump shot. I sprayed all the passages through with carb cleaner. I'll take it apart again and see if I missed anything. Maybe it is just time for a new carb.

The sucking sound and covering the top of the carb allowing it to run better sounds very much like a vacuum problem is there any chance that the intake gasket is bad and sucking air.

I've never touched the intake, how would I check for a leak there? Spray around with carb cleaner and see if the idle changes? Where else could there be a problem besides the throttle shaft, vacuum lines, and gaskets?

Carb cleaner spray (or, safer and less messy, an unlit propane torch with the air mixer unscrewed from the end of the torch head and a rubber hose pushed over the rest of the torch head) directed to gasket junctions will work well to detect a leak, yes; listen for the idle to change. It is very much worth your while to get the good gaskets for the manifolds-to-head and intake-to-exhaust junctions if you are replacing them.

Me, I think you've probably got a faulty carburetor. I don't recall what year/model you're working on, and my stash of new carbs is getting kind of thin, but send me a PM if you'd like me to check what I have for you.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks for the advice. I'll check for leaks once I get home from work.

The car is a 65 Barracuda.