finally got the valves adjusted on the car
everything is good in that aspect
and it even starts usuallyy on the first try but once it gets warm it will die
i replaced the pcv valve and actually hooked it to the carb and it seemed to help but not enough
i know i have an exhaust leak bucause one of the bolts that connect the intake and exhaust broke but its better than what it was

i know the exhaust leak has a lot to do with my problems but there has to be something else going on

any suggestions?
and i know its still burning a little rich cause i cant keep it running long enough to adjust anything

Does it die because it is being choked to death?? you said it was running rich...what carb?

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

brand new 1920
and its dying once the chokes off of it..
im just getting fed up

How warm before it dies? How long does it run? Going down the road, or sitting in the driveway?
Will it restart after it dies? Does it die all at once, or sputter and shut down?

Have you got your ballast resistor in the circuit? What ignition are you running?

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

it dies once its run about 5 minutes then from then on its hell
it will start back up but die soon after
the ignition system is all OEM stuff with the coil being hotter
i know its burner rich cause a few times last night it threw some flames out the carb

itll head down the road fine and be good on accelerating but as soon as i slow down and even come to a stop itll try and die

What do you mean by hotter in reference to the coil?

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Blowing flames out of the carb sound more like a timing issue to me than a fuel problem.

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hotter as in just a accel coil....not really hotter i guess
i know it needs to be timed again but its hard when ya only know how to do it when its running

Get a timing light on it ASAP. Doing a static ear tune isn't that easy with a six. Save that for FE's and the like. A slant will no-load happily with way too much timing.
I've heard of problems with Accel coils. They may have the wrong impedance for the stock ignition. Never ran one myself. I run a Blaster II. You may have cooked something.
Is this an electronic ignition or points? Is the ballast resistor still in the circuit?

When you look at the tailpipe, is it sooty black?

Please bring us up to speed on year and vehicle.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

this is gonna sound like a dumb question

which hose is connected to the pcv to the carb and the carb to what im guessing is a canister for emission

ive had 3 different people tell me 3 different things and i want a difinative answer

the top large hose outlet goes to where?
base of carb outlet goes where?

73 scamp with 79k miles
electronic ignition

i can usually time a small block mopar by ear....which has been a bad habit to break

and its all sorts of black and sooty out the tailpipe...when it was running even worse it was smoking and throwing crap out the tailpipe

Right above this thread is the FAQ. It contains detailed information about the Holley 1920 with pictures.

Take a look and see if it doesn't answer your question definitively.

think i got the vaccum lines straightened out and holy crap that thing idled high
guess my timing is off bad now that i have the vaccum lines right
ill try and put a timing light on it tomorrow...it still wanted to die but i guess it will with timing off

You can do a static time on it. Bump the engine around until the timing marks line up. Make sure that the rotor in the distributor is pointing to number one cylinder. Unplug the ignition cable from number one cylinder and plug it in to a spare/old spark-plug. Lay the plug on the block or manifold (make sure the plug is resting on metal) so that the plugs gap can be seen by your self when you turn the distributer. Loosen the clamp on the distributer that holds it down so that you can move it with some drag. Now turn your ignition key to "run" (do not start the car). now rotate the distributer back and forth until you can get a feel for it and then rotate it slowly until you get a spark at the plug. tighten down the distributers clamp bolt and you are done as soon as you put the spark cable back on to the number one cylinder plug.
Lynn

now what if i take the dist out and accidently rotated it how do i make sure its in the right spot?
i knew when we adjusted the time before it was advanced by 10...and i knew we had to take the dist out and overcompensate for the rotation by placing the dist in retarded...dunno if that made any sense